Harbor Holidays

Balboa Island in Newport Harbor is a popular summertime destination, a place to go for frozen bananas, bikinis and beach toys.

Yet in December, long after the crowds of tourists have deserted this small man-made island, it becomes a one-of-a-kind destination, where seaside charm blends with the holiday spirit and shopping. This beach-meets-the-North-Pole ambience gives rise to some peculiar seasonal visuals, such as the wood cutout of Santa riding a classic Woody station wagon adorning a home or a giant plaster snowman gazing out at Newport Harbor from a private waterfront patio.

Still, there are many lovely sights to put visitors in a festive mood. The bridge leading onto the island from Jamboree Road in Newport Beach has been transformed into a candy cane lane, leading to Marine Avenue, where most of the island’s 70-plus shops and restaurants are congregated.

Most of the shopping is decidedly upscale, though there are a few souvenir shops selling T-shirts and sand toys. The street offers fine gift shops, art galleries and home stores that offer elegant furnishings and accessories. Many stores carry clothing for women and children that range from expensive to moderately priced. There are only a few clothing stores for men, and the guy on your gift list had better like Hawaiian shirts.

You can take a shopping break by relaxing on one of the numerous park benches with a cappuccino or a pastry from a local counter-top eatery, or enjoy a sit-down pasta lunch in a romantic trattoria.

If you prefer walking, not shopping, the island offers a pleasant route along the waterfront. Once just a sandbar, Balboa Island was created in 1913 when the dredging of mud from the floor of the bay was completed. Property lots, intended mainly for vacation homes, originally sold for $250. Now homes on prime harbor-front sites can cost millions, and owners have turned their little beach cottages into elegant year-round residences with well-tended gardens.

They decorate their homes with a special passion in December.

“A lot of people have their homes decorated by professionals--they can afford to,” one shop owner said. Indeed, one such property had so much grapevine garland and greenery, it looked like a storefront.

The island’s annual December event is the Newport Harbor Christmas Boat Parade. The parade originated, according to island lore, in the early 1900s when a gondolier named John Scarpa illuminated eight canoes and his gondola with Japanese lanterns and paddled around the harbor. Now a procession of elaborately decorated yachts and boats, the parade begins at 6:30 p.m. nightly Dec. 17-23. Parking on the island promises to be a nightmare on those days (see box, E1).

Balboa Island is unique to Southern California and makes a fun day trip.

The Route

Starting at Marine and Park avenues at the Village Inn, across from the fire station.

The Stores

Here’s a sampling of the stores:

Even Sisters, 207 Marine Ave., (949) 673-2130: a cool place to shop for preteen girls. Fun flannel jammies, Ts and fashions from Roxy, Fresh Produce and other labels.

* Magasin 209, 209 Marine Ave., (949) 673-5542: Magasin caters to fashion-forward women (and their trendy kids). Not for the timid: a faux zebra coat.

* Our Gang’s General Store, 217 Marine Ave., (949) 675-0666: the place to go for one of the colorful flags decorating homes all over the island. Our Gang’s also carries toys, including rockets, Frisbees and other fun things that fly.

* Teddy Bears & Tea Cups, 225 Marine Ave., (949) 673-7204: Yes, lots of bears and tea sets fill this quaint cottage-style establishment, but we also found ballerina tutus, princess hats, dolls and other precious things little girls love. We couldn’t resist the Sleeping Beauty paper dolls ($4.50).

* The Persimmon Tree, 229 Marine Ave., (949) 673-4280: a year-round source for bikinis, beach cover-ups, board shorts and other resort wear.

* Balboa Candy, 301 Marine Ave., (949) 723-6099: barrels of saltwater taffy in all kinds of flavors, from root beer float to peanut butter and chocolate. They sell ‘em by the half-pound for $3.49.

* Yin N Yang Harmonious Home Accents, 301-B Marine Ave., (949) 723-5579: The scent of incense drew us into this store, which offers a wide range of unique Asian-style artifacts, furnishings and home accessories.

* S.S. Red Sail, 303 Marine Ave., (949) 673-9300: unusual and fun children’s clothing (tulle skirts, embellished sweaters and stretch velvets). We liked the lush purple velour jacket with felt flowers ($82) and the stuffed chenille rabbits and bears sporting boas and hats.

* Island Home, 313 Marine Ave., (949) 673-1133: a quaint cottage-style shop and courtyard filled with elegant accents and gifts for the home, including hand-painted and needlepoint pillows, hooked rugs, linens, candles and gifts.

* Shirley’s Heart, 327 Marine Ave., (949) 675-4278: a must for those who like country or shabby-chic interiors. Shirley’s has lots of tole-painted birdhouses, welcome signs and garden stakes and a large selection of hand-hooked rugs.

* Food for Thought, 332 Marine Ave., (949) 566-9190: handcrafted items and accessories primarily for the kitchen, including plates and serving platters painted with everything from fruit to fish by co-owner Andra Martin. We liked the funky, ‘50s-inspired drink stand that holds colorful plastic cups (about $50), perfect for spa entertaining.

* The Collection, 332 Marine Ave., (949) 675-6887: good for bargain hunting. Discount women’s clothing, including lots of comfortable knit weekend wear. We spotted a stretch black velvet dress, just the thing for a millennium bash, for $38.

* Etc. Etc. Etc., 312 Marine Ave., (949) 673-5321: This women’s clothing store has a large selection of beautiful sweaters, some embellished with seed pearls, beading or embroidery. For the holidays, we coveted a red silk/cashmere sweater set ($134).

* Martha’s Bookstore, 308 Marine Ave., (949) 673-7185: Tucked behind the shops in a whimsical cottage, Martha’s offers books, Beanies, decorative flags and hospitality--they’re quick to ply visitors with macadamia nut coffee and cookies.

* Sally Huss Gallery, 222-B Marine Ave., (949) 673-1292: Sally Huss’ bright paintings of flowers, sailboats and other cheerful motifs suit Balboa well (she used to play tennis on the island, a local said). Prints, cards, pottery and other items by the artist with the sunny disposition.

* Simon Fine Art Gallery & Studio, 216 Marine Ave., (949) 723-1100: For serious art lovers, the gallery offers landscapes by artist Steve Simon and others.

* Balboa Beach Co., 210 Marine Ave., (949) 673-3900: Dudes will like the fleece pullovers by Quiksilver, the sweats and jackets by Rusty and other surf-inspired clothing for young males.

* Art for the Soul, 210-A Marine Ave., (949) 675-1791: lots of humorous, hand-painted pieces, from headboards to frog fountains. Our favorite: The “Builders vs. Environmentalists” chess table that pits wildlife against skyscrapers and urban blight ($1,299).

* The Chic Shack, 210-D Marine Ave., Suite D, (949) 673-9541: great accessories for romantic home interiors, from vintage crystal chandeliers ($545 for an especially grand specimen) to assorted bottles hand-painted with roses (about $25).

* J.P. Maxwell, 204 Marine Ave. (949) 673-7211: A traditional men’s clothing store with a vast selection of Hawaiian print shirts--enough to satisfy the most avid collector.

* Agate 108 Cottage Plates, 108 Agate Ave., (949) 675-0330: (At the ferry landing on Agate Avenue and South Bay Front.) Homes all over the island have these ceramic plates printed with the family name, address or a simple welcome sign. Here, you can get your own personalized plate for $55.

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The Scoop

Where: Balboa Island is a man-made island in Newport Harbor, east of Balboa Peninsula in Orange County. There are two ways to access the island: By car, take the Jamboree Road offramp off the 405 Freeway. Go south, continuing on Jamboree, which becomes Marine Avenue after you cross the Balboa Island Bridge. By ferry: Park at municipal beach lots ($7 a day maximum) at Palm Street and East Ocean Front. Walk to the ferry station at Palm and Edgewater Avenue for a three-minute ride to the island (50 cents for adult pedestrians, 25 cents for children). You arrive at Agate Avenue, head right for a scenic stroll along South Bay Front. Go 12 blocks and take a left on Marine Avenue, the main shopping area.

Hours: Most stores are open daily from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.

Parking: Driving onto the island can turn into a parking nightmare. But you can try your luck finding a spot on Marine Avenue, or on one of the narrow residential streets. Beware of the many one-way streets and the need for parallel parking skills. The best bet is to use the ferry.

Stores: See accompanying story list.

Where to eat: There are restaurants to fit most budgets and tastes. Everything from cinnamon rolls to Mexican food can be purchased along Marine Avenue.

The island is famous for its hand-dipped chocolate-covered bananas and Balboa Bars, a specialty of Sugar ‘n’ Spice (310 Marine Ave.) and Dad’s (318 Marine Ave.). Island Grill (500 South Bay Front near the ferry landing), serves corn dogs, burgers and other classic beach snacks. Need a caffeine fix? There’s Pain du Monde (220 Marine Ave.), which has espressos to go. Healthy snacks can be found at Irvine Ranch Market (200 Marine Ave.).

For a casual sit-down lunch, Wilma’s Patio (203 Marine Ave.) offers sandwiches, burgers and breakfast all day. Picante Martin’s (320 Marine Ave.) is another quick stop for Mexican fare and sandwiches. Ciao (223 Marine Ave.) has pasta, pizza, hot and cold sandwiches and other Italian fare at reasonable prices (try the prosciutto calzone for $7.95). Shanghai Pine Garden (300 Marine Ave.) is a popular spot for those who like Mandarin and Sichuan cuisine.

If it’s fine dining you’re after, Amelia’s (311 Marine Ave.) has seafood, pasta, cannelloni and wine served in an elegant dining room. Giorgio La Trattoria (305 Marine Ave.) offers Italian cuisine and seafood.

ATM: Wells Fargo (300 Block of Marine Ave.).