Branzino

Branzino is the most popular Mediterranean fish. It’s a sweet, delicate striped bass about 16 inches long. It can be prepared in a variety of ways, the simpler the better.

* Tanino: Chef Tanino Drago seasons branzino with rosemary and garlic, broils it briefly, finishes it in the oven and serves it with roasted potatoes and sauteed vegetables. (Branzino, $24.) Tanino, 1043 Westwood Blvd., Los Angeles, (310) 208-0444.

* Valentino and Primi: Branzino is featured on Wednesday nights and often on Saturdays at both restaurants. The most popular preparation is baked in a salt crust with garlic, lemon and fresh herbs. Also recommended is the branzino all’ aqua pazza at Primi, simmered slowly in salted water with garlic, red chile flakes and lots of parsley. The chefs will also broil it simply with herbs such as fennel and rosemary. (Branzino, market price, from $19 to $25.) Valentino, 3115 Pico Blvd., Santa Monica, (310) 829-4313; Primi, 10543 Pico Blvd., Rancho Park, (310) 475-9235.

* L’Ermitage: Chef Paul McCabe roasts branzino with fennel in a stone oven with vine-ripe tomatoes and a Provencal olive oil infusion. (Branzino, $28.) L’Ermitage Beverly Hills, 9291 Burton Way, Beverly Hills, (310) 278-3344.

* Amici and Amici Mare: The cozy, semi-secret Amici (in the Beverly Terrace Hotel) has opened a Santa Monica branch, Amici Mare. At both, grilled branzino is often a fish of the day, served with various sauces, including lemon-herb, puttanesca and a caper sauce with baby artichokes and a touch of checca (chopped tomato and garlic). (Branzino, $14.95.) Amici, Beverly Terrace Hotel, 469 N. Doheny Drive, Beverly Hills, (310) 858-0271; Amici Mare, 2424 Main St., Santa Monica, (310) 314-2119.

* Ago: Chef Agostino Sciandri offers fresh branzino simply grilled with herbs and served with steamed vegetables. (Branzino, $21.) Ago, 8478 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, (323) 655-6333.

* Ca’ del Sole: Branzino often shows up as a fish special. Filets are grilled with herbs, white wine and olive oil or served with chopped tomatoes or, in classic Venetian tradition, a white wine and thyme sauce. (Branzino, market price, from $16.95 to $21.) Ca’ del Sole, 4100 Cahuenga Blvd., North Hollywood, (818) 985-4669.

* La Luna and La Luna Mare: This Larchmont Village Italian place and its Santa Monica counterpart often feature fresh branzino on special. They grill it and serve it with capers and lemon juice or tomatoes and oregano or bake it in foil with mixed seafood (for two). Waiters debone whole fish at the table. (Branzino, $22.) La Luna, 113 N. Larchmont Blvd., Hancock Park, (323) 962-2130; La Luna Mare, 119 Broadway, Santa Monica, (310) 656-2424.