Hungry Glendale Shoppers Can Bask in Sol et Soleil

Sol et Soleil (French for “of the ground and of the sun”) is the latest restaurant from Bistro 45’s Robert Simon. Sol et Soleil (which is pronounced Sol AY So-Lay) takes as its theme “the best food under the sun,” which could mean anywhere, but here encompasses the cuisines of France, Italy, Spain and California, mostly. And like Simon’s popular Pasadena bistro, the new restaurant has a strong emphasis on wine.

Just around the corner from a huge, brightly lit Borders bookstore at Brand and Broadway in Glendale, Sol et Soleil is built to hold a crowd. Beneath lofty ceilings painted matte black, bright canvas awnings carve the huge space into cozier portions. The look is industrial French country, which may be a first in the annals of design. Seated in one of the high-backed booths, the room feels comfortable, and the service is both friendly and efficient.

Sol et Soleil’s menu offers something for just about everybody who might wander in looking for a bite (or two) to eat. I was immediately attracted to the regional pizzas, zeroing in on a Castillion version with chorizo, roasted peppers and mozzarella. But when it came, it tasted more like something from California Pizza Kitchen than Spain. One of the nicest appetizers is skillet-roasted mussels steamed open in a very hot pan. Without the usual sauce to distract, you can really appreciate the taste of the plump, fresh mussels. Steamed little neck clams in white wine, garlic and parsley is another good bet. And the calamari are nicely fried, and served with a sprightly lemon aioli.

If you’re going on to main courses, consider sharing. The portions are generous, to say the least, starting with the Soleil burger. But the most appealing entrees may be the daily specials from the rotisserie and wood-burning oven. On Monday, it’s leg of lamb with garlic and rosemary; on Tuesday, pork loin in a cracked pepper and mustard crust with wilted greens and potato gratin, for example. And watch for that seafood paella de Soleil on Saturday nights. Prices are moderate, with most main courses hovering well below the $20 mark.

The good news is that Sol et Soleil is open all through the afternoon, perfect for worn-out shoppers or intellectuals on the loose.

BE THERE

Sol et Soleil, 110 S. Brand Blvd., Glendale; (818) 244-4SOL. Open from 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily. Small plates and starters $7 to $9; pizzas $7 to $9; sandwiches $8; pastas $9 to $11; main courses $12 to $19.