Bulli’s Gimmicks

During my visit to Barcelona in June 1998, I spent a few days on the Costa Brava. I found my way to El Bulli along the road in a condition accurately described by David Shaw (“Chez Bulldog,” Nov. 3), one that could shake my rental car into a pile of component parts.

After making this effort to get to the remotely located restaurant, I couldn’t turn back even though I felt intimidated by the rarefied, hushed atmosphere. “Gimmicky combinations” assembled using “technology to create fantasy” aptly describes the food at El Bulli. I ordered menestra en texturas. In this dish, Ferran Adria--the so-called chef of the decade--stole outright from a space ship diet. A plate of little piles of pureed vegetables was set before me. It was the kind of stuff astronauts squeeze from a tube. It was forgettable as food.

MAGGIE McOMIE

Santa Monica