COOKBOOK WATCH : Little Books’ Big Brother

James McNair is the king of the pretty little book. Since 1985, he’s written 28--thin glossy things, packed with beautiful photography and stylish recipes. Selling more than 3 million copies, they have made him a minor brand name, a less neurotic Martha Stewart. His latest, “James McNair’s Favorites” (Chronicle Books, $29.95), is a sort of greatest hits collection from those books, though it does include recipes that have not been previously published.

McNair is a culinary popularizer, not an explorer. He specializes in carefully written, workable recipes from a wide range of cuisines. In “Favorites,” you’ll find everything from a rustic Moroccan tagine to Cambodian rice flour crepes and, of course, a lot of Thai and what might be called modern Southern cooking in between--those seem to be his favorites.

Predictably, this is one big book. It is unlikely that you will have a hard time finding something to cook from it. Purists may complain that what is lacking is a sense of continuity--of focus--and with a book that includes both baking powder biscuits and nam prik, you have to concede them that point. But perhaps what they say about foolish consistency is the same for foolish continuity. Really, sometimes don’t you just want a bunch of good recipes?