1997 Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva “Il Poggio,” Tuscany

This famous Chianti Classico riserva from Monsanto’s top vineyard is made from the local clone of Sangiovese called Sangioveto di Monsanto with a small proportion of Cannaiolo and Colorino. Given its reputation, and that of the extraordinary ’97 vintage, this wine will go fast.

“Il Poggio” is phenomenally long-lived for a Chianti. Since the 1997 is still very young, owner Fabrizio Bianchi feels it shows best if it’s decanted an hour before serving. As the wine sheets down the sides of the decanter, it gives off a beguiling scent of sweet cherries and new leather.

The surprise is how drinkable this wine is right now. With the bright fruit overriding the tannins, it’s a beautifully structured wine. Although incredibly delicious now, if you have the patience to lay it down for five years, you’ll be rewarded with the nuances that only age can bring to great red wines.

About $40. Available at fine wine stores. If you can’t find this wine, have your retailer call the distributor, Henry Wine Group, at (800) 669-9428.