Room and Bored

It’s dark on Brand Boulevard north of the 134 Freeway, and even darker inside Gennaro’s, as elegant an Italian restaurant as Glendale can claim.

The walls are draped with silky embroidered cloth, the tables are set with linen and crystal. A team of tuxedoed waiters glides unobtrusively around the small, plush room.

Once you’re seated, a waiter brings you a piece of sun-dried tomato toast covered with melted mozzarella. A basket of ciabatta and olive breads also sets a nice tone.

But despite this auspicious beginning, much of the food is Continental, rather than Italian, and sometimes even a bit tired.

The restaurant’s real charms make the disappointment all the more keen.

Take zuppa di vongole, a clam soup described as having a hint of fresh basil. That description led me to expect a fragrant broth stocked with clams in their shells. What I got was an overly thickened clam chowder, with one lone clam shell pulling guard duty on the surface.

In the case of faggiano in salmi (roast pheasant with pearl onions in a Marsala sauce), I suspect the letdown wasn’t all the kitchen’s fault.

It’s just hard to get game in the big city. I told my guests it was chicken, and none of them guessed it wasn’t.

One salad, insalatina novella con caprino, is a good combination of baby lettuces, toasted pine nuts and goat cheese. Goat cheese also plays a major role in tomini caldi, a hearty appetizer of buttery sauteed shiitake mushrooms, goat cheese and well-prepared asparagus tips.

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But the generously proportioned pastas and one risotto I tried were bland. The ravioli di vitello al ragu is homemade, and the pasta was chewy and fresh, but the veal filling was mealy and the meat sauce insipid.

My risotto, though properly moist, was dominated by a tomato sauce that had me thinking Franco-American.

There are saving graces. Osso buco alla Milanese is a meaty braised veal shank with lots of marrow in the bone. A special, Lake Superior whitefish prepared piccata style, was delicious grilled fish drizzled with a tart lemon butter sauce.

And the desserts from the cart are perfectly good, especially the creamy tiramisu cake.

Furthermore, service is attentive, the barman mixes a mean martini and the ambience is quiet and relaxing, which adds up to a refreshingly adult restaurant.

What Gennaro’s really needs is a shot of youthful energy in the kitchen.

BE THERE

Gennaro’s, 1109 Brand Blvd., Glendale. Lunch 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m. Monday-Friday, dinner 5:30-10 p.m. nightly. Full bar. Valet parking. All major cards. Dinner for two, $53-$79. Suggested dishes: insalatina novella, $8.75; tomini caldi, $9.75; osso buco Milanese, $23.25; Lake Superior whitefish, $21. Call (818) 243-6231.