A Serving of Whimsy

You might not expect a remarkably creative French chef to be named Frederik Lorentzon, but he is. Though quite young, Lorentzon has cooked in some of his native Stockholm’s best French restaurants. He has a daring visual style, coupled with a taste for quirky pairings.

Today he’s working at Robair’s Bistro, a chic Encino newcomer in the old Gardens of Taxco spot. (It has nothing to do with the lamented Hollywood landmark Robaire’s, by the way; it’s named for the owner’s father-in-law.)

The restaurant, at least, does fit a French profile. It’s a cherry-wood-paneled room complete with tricolor awning over the bar.

Our very French waiter insisted that we try the gravlax. Understandably; this is the one Swedish specialty often found in our French restaurants. It came as five cubes of dill-encrusted fish on a tiny Indonesian-style skewer.

There’s a similar whimsy in other dishes. The co^te de porc is spicy Korean-style barbecued ribs, served with mesclun greens and a pile of fresh ginger. Foie gras comes inside tiny tubes of fried mashed potato (the menu calls this “potato tacos”). Lorentzon’s vichyssoise is fairly traditional (although served warm), but it comes with a delicate wedge of quiche called “Parmesan tarte.”

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The main courses are less consistent but no less interesting. Canard is a confit of duck leg smothered with peaches, which made me think of the South, paired with pieces of breast meat grilled crisp (actually, somewhat overcooked).

There’s a creation consisting of three lamb filet steaks wrapped in Parma ham, served on a parsley puree, which I found distracting. A dish called 2 x poissons turns out to be one chunk each of gratineed ono and salmon on a bed of mashed potatoes. The idea is nice, but both pieces of fish came to the table badly overcooked.

One big selling point about this place is the cheese platter offered after the main course. It’s stocked with wonderful raw-milk cheeses from France, including Munster, Epoisses, Chabichou (a creamy goat cheese) and many more.

The desserts are beautiful and reasonably well made. The rich, delicious chocolate terrine is studded with caramelized macadamia nuts. Gingembre is a souffle glace Grand Marnier in a thin robe of chocolate, served with a tiny side dish of finely minced tropical fruit. It comes with a sake pitcher filled with a warm ginger syrup for pouring over the fruit.

And you thought Swedish chefs stuck to meatballs and herring.

BE THERE

Robair’s Bistro, 17209 Ventura Blvd., Encino. Dinner 6-10 p.m. Tuesday-Sunday. No alcohol (beer and wine license pending). Parking lot. All major cards. Dinner for two, $52-$73. Suggested dishes: gravlax, $9; co^te de porc, $8; canard, $18; gingembre, $8. Call (818) 981-3604.