Granita in Malibu Sizzles Thursdays With Beefy ‘Chop Night’

Thursday night is “chop night” at Granita in Malibu. That’s when chef Jennifer Naylor devotes the restaurant to a special menu of grilled items, appetizers and sides--sort of a once-a-week chop house. And since Malibu is thick with sushi joints, Italian restaurants and fish houses, and very short on places to eat red meat, the locals are already out in force on the third week of her inspired new menu.

Appetizers are big enough to share--or not, that is, if you’ve just come from Gold’s Gym. I can’t stay away from the crudites--an enormous iced platter of radishes, fresh artichoke hearts, green beans, asparagus, cauliflower and bell peppers--red ones, yellow ones and even violet beauties--to dip in a warm anchoiade (a garlic-anchovy dipping sauce). Crab cakes are crunchy golden orbs, absolutely packed with crabmeat, and served with a fine lemon-garlic aioli. There’s a corn chowder laced with Manila clams in the shell that’s a little too rich and hearty as a prelude to steak or chops. But then if you’re in the mood for shellfish, Naylor always has brilliant oysters on the half shell and a classic jumbo shrimp cocktail.

Then comes a real carnivore’s feast: thick cuts of prime rib-eye or New York steak, a hefty pork or veal chop, Colorado lamb chops and a beautiful plate of roasted baby lamb that encompasses three different cuts, including rosy little chops. The one dish that’s really disappointing is the chicken Milanese, which arrives soggy and swimming in butter. Fish lovers get something to eat, too--such as grilled day-boat scallops or a barbecued salmon “chop”--but why not live a little and order the whole branzino or Mediterranean striped bass?

Every main course comes with a choice of two of the 10 or so sides. And they’re good ones, like the lacy tempura onion rings, spicy broccoletti and grilled Rosa Bianca eggplant.

Me, I can’t get the crudites out of my mind. With Chino Ranch vegetables and that enticing anchovy garlic sauce, it’s the beginning of a beautiful summer meal.

BE THERE

Granita, 23725 W. Malibu Road, Malibu; (310) 456-0488. Thursday night chop menu: appetizers, $12 to $18; pastas, $14 to $16; grilled items, $22 to $32. Valet and lot parking. Check special events, menu and wine list on the Web at www.wolfgangpuck.com.