Home, Sweet Home

Many of us prefer homey, mouthwatering desserts to those towering, complex constructions that appear on upscale restaurant menus.

Linda Olson, pastry chef at Betise, a bistro on Lake Michigan in Wilmette, Ill., bakes the full-flavored, old-fashioned desserts for which we yearn.

Depending on the season, her repertoire can include creme bru^lee, flourless chocolate roll with whipped cream, Champagne zabaglione or angel cake with fresh berries, persimmon pudding or steamed pumpkin pudding, to mention only some of the favorites that I have tasted over the years. Here is a sampling.

Fudge Buttermilk Cake With Bittersweet Ganache

Active Work Time: 25 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 1 hour 5 minutes

Dense, moist and deep chocolate, this cake can be sliced thin--but that’s an unlikely request by any chocolate lover. Serve with vanilla ice cream, if desired.

1 1/2 cups plus 2 tablespoons flour

1/2 teaspoon baking powder

1/2 teaspoon baking soda

1/8 teaspoon salt

1 cup (2 sticks) butter, room temperature, plus more for greasing

1 3/4 cups light brown sugar, packed

4 ounces unsweetened chocolate, melted

3 eggs

1 cup buttermilk, well-shaken

* Sift together flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt. Set aside.

* Beat butter and brown sugar at medium speed until light and fluffy, about 2 minutes. Scrape down bowl; mix in chocolate until well combined. Add eggs, 1 at a time, mixing each well before adding another.

* On lowest speed, add dry ingredients and buttermilk alternately, beginning and ending with dry ingredients and mixing well before each addition. After last addition, scrape down bowl. Mix until well combined. Transfer to greased 10-inch springform pan that has been lined with greased circle of parchment paper. Set pan on baking sheet. Smooth cake top with spatula.

* Bake at 375 degrees until toothpick inserted in center comes out clean (top gets very dark), about 40 minutes. Cool on rack. Use small flexible knife to release cake from sides of pan. Remove sides. If cake top is too dark, carefully trim and discard top surface. Invert cake onto platter. Remove springform bottom and paper.

GANACHE

1 cup whipping cream

8 ounces semisweet chocolate, finely chopped

* Bring cream to boil in small saucepan. Place chocolate in bowl and pour cream over top. Stir with wooden spoon until smooth. Pour over cake. Use metal spatula to smooth top and evenly coat sides of cake. (Can be made a day ahead and kept at room temperature.)

12 to 16 servings. Each of 16 servings: 415 calories; 191 mg sodium; 92 mg cholesterol; 27 grams fat; 44 grams carbohydrates; 5 grams protein; 0.35 gram fiber.

Warm Apple Cake

Active Work Time: 20 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 1 hour 30 minutes

You can also top the cake with powdered sugar rather than serving it with caramel sauce and ice cream.

1 1/2 cups flour

1 1/2 teaspoons ground cinnamon

1 teaspoon baking soda

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

1 cup (2 sticks) butter, room temperature, plus more for greasing

1 cup sugar

2 eggs, room temperature

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

3 tart apples, peeled, cored and finely chopped (about 3 cups)

3/4 cup chopped pecans or walnuts

Vanilla ice cream, optional

Caramel sauce, optional

* Sift together flour, cinnamon, baking soda, salt and nutmeg. Set aside.

* Beat butter and sugar at medium speed until light and fluffy, 4 minutes. Add eggs, 1 at a time, mixing each well before adding another. Add vanilla; scrape down sides of bowl. Mix in dry ingredients, apples and nuts on low speed. Increase speed to medium and mix 10 seconds more. Transfer to greased 9-inch springform pan and set on baking sheet. Smooth cake top.

* Bake at 350 degrees until toothpick inserted in center comes out clean, about 45 minutes to 1 hour. Cool completely on rack. Use small sharp knife to separate cake from sides of springform; remove ring. Serve warm (gently reheat in 300-degree oven for about 10 minutes). Cut into wedges; serve with a dollop of ice cream and warm caramel sauce.

12 servings. Each serving, cake only: 331 calories; 266 mg sodium; 77 mg cholesterol; 21 grams fat; 34 grams carbohydrates; 4 grams protein; 0.56 gram fiber.

Peanut Butter Cheesecake

Active Work Time: 25 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 1 hour 30 minutes plus 8 hours chilling

CRUST

1 3/4 cups chocolate wafer crumbs

6 tablespoons butter, melted, plus more for greasing

* Grease 9-inch springform pan and wrap double thickness of foil around outside. Mix cookie crumbs and butter and press evenly into bottom of pan.

CHEESECAKE

2 pounds cream cheese, room temperature

1 1/4 cups sugar

4 eggs

1 cup sour cream

1/3 cup whipping cream

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1 cup peanut butter

3 ounces semisweet chocolate, melted

* Beat cream cheese at medium speed until smooth. Gradually add sugar. Beat until light and fluffy, 2 minutes. Add eggs, 1 at a time, mixing each just until combined before adding another. Scrape down sides of bowl. Add sour cream, whipping cream and vanilla. Transfer 1-cup batter to small bowl; set aside. Add peanut butter to remaining batter and mix well, scraping down bowl.

* Add melted chocolate to reserved 1-cup batter. Pour over crumb crust; spread smooth. Pour peanut butter batter over. Smooth top. Set into 2-inch deep baking dish and pour in enough hot water to come up sides 1 inch.

* Bake at 350 degrees until toothpick inserted in center comes out clean, top has risen to top of pan and is golden brown, about 1 hour 5 minutes. Remove from water bath; cool completely on rack. Use small flexible knife to release cheesecake from sides of pan. Leave ring on while storing. Refrigerate overnight, covered airtight.

* To serve, bring to room temperature. Use sharp knife dipped into hot water to cut in wedges.

12 to 16 servings. Each of 16 servings: 510 calories; 281 mg sodium; 140 mg cholesterol; 41 grams fat; 28 grams carbohydrates; 11 grams protein; 0.44 gram fiber.