French Technique in a Very L.A. Setting

Georgia to L.A.: Chef Warren Schwartz and his wife, Kim, have taken over the old Georgia space on Melrose in L.A. and will turn it into their own restaurant. Warren Schwartz worked with Bradley Ogden at Lark Creek Inn up in the Bay Area and, closer to home, down Melrose as a sous chef at Patina. Kim Schwartz will run the front of the house. Warren says, “My wife and I came up with the idea of doing something that was distinctly Los Angeles.” So they named their place Laca, standing for Los Angeles, Calif. Of the cuisine he says, “We love the French techniques and sauces, but we’re going to be very focused on American ingredients.” In other words, the menu will be in English.

The interior of the restaurant is being made to look very aged, with a large stone fireplace, lots of wood and plenty of earth tones. The chairs and tables are Mission style with the focus on comfort. The Schwartzes have taken over the entire lower floor of the building, so Laca will be larger than Georgia was, with a bar and lounge, a separate smaller bar, a patio, and three dining spaces that can be combined into one. Look for it to open around mid-May.

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International Man of Music: Vatche’s Cafe & Bar opened near Universal City not long ago. The owner, who goes by the name Vatche, is an Armenian-born lounge singer who’ll entertain you (in eight languages) every Friday and Saturday night as he fronts his five-piece band. During the week, his piano bar is booked with other performers. The two-story dining room serves Mediterranean cuisine with California touches. On the menu are dishes such as steaks, salmon and lemon chicken. The chef, Steven Tyson, came from Gordon Biersch Brewing Co. in Burbank. Vatche’s is open for lunch and dinner daily.

* Vatche’s Cafe & Bar, 3575 Cahuenga Blvd. West, L.A.; (323) 851-8855.

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Rockin’ Memories: Rockenwagner is getting ready to celebrate its 15th birthday in June. To prepare, Hans Rockenwagner is letting his guests vote on their favorite dishes he’s served since he opened the restaurant in 1985. The catch: You have to remember those dishes yourself; he doesn’t have a list available at the moment. The current favorites include the crab souffle, the Napoleon of salmon and the roast duck in dried cherry ginger sauce with scallion pancake stack. Some old dishes we dug up include lobster ragout appetizer with a sweet corn torte and cognac sauce; roasted filet mignon with blue cheese and grapes; Chilean sea bass with sweet and sour vegetables; seared scallops with coconut and sweet potato mash; potato-wrapped loin of lamb with port wine sauce; fresh berry soup with sorbet and champagne. If you have a favorite dish you’re dying to sink your teeth into again, get your vote in now so he can make it as a special next week. He’ll re-create one classic Rockenwagner dish each week from now until June 20.

* Rockenwagner, 2435 Main St., Santa Monica; (310) 399-6504.

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Two Makes a Trend: Starting tonight and continuing every Thursday, Spark Woodfire Cooking will be offering three-course menus from the Veneto region of Italy for $25. Chef Lucio Bedon will present dishes from the Veneto with wines by the bottle offered at 40% off. If this special sounds familiar, it’s because Spark owner Danilo Terribili offers the same deal (three courses, $25, discounted wine prices) on Wednesday nights at his West Hollywood restaurant, Alto Palato.

* Spark Woodfire Cooking, 11801 Ventura Blvd., Studio City; (818) 623-8883.

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Don’t Get HBO? Watch the cable hit “The Sopranos” Sunday nights with a roomful of other wise guys while noshing on all-you-can-eat Sicilian food served family-style in the “Soprano Room” of Gallo’s Bar & Grill.

* Gallo’s Bar & Grill, 5425 Farralone Ave., Woodland Hills; (818) 346-4393.

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Sure, I Made It: Joan’s on Third, the gourmet takeout store just east of La Cienega Boulevard on West 3rd Street, has new frozen entrees to go. The meals come in quantities of two to 12 portions with heating instructions on the containers. Dishes include beef Wellington, chicken breasts stuffed with ricotta and prosciutto, mushroom lasagna and whole leg of lamb.

* Joan’s on Third, 8350 W. 3rd St., L.A.; (323) 655-2285.

Angela Pettera can be reached at (213) 237-3153 or at pettera@prodigy.net