El Breakfast Grande

Breakfast is big in Mexico--really big. Accustomed to a modest morning meal of tea and toast at home, I am amazed whenever I travel south by the huge plates of enchiladas, eggs laden with salsa, meat, refried beans and tortillas on most tables. Even slim young girls, the type who would start their days in a gym here, order these mammoth breakfasts.

In the market in Veracruz, one stall serves only pozole, a sturdy pork and hominy soup. It’s usually crowded even very early in the morning. So, because the market doesn’t offer tea and toast, I line up at another busy stall for scrambled eggs wrapped in tortillas or a fried chipotle chile stuffed with meat, topped off with guacamole and set on a double layer of tortillas.

Even “healthful” breakfasts tend to be big. On a recent visit, my hotel in Jalapa, the capital of Veracruz state, offered as a complimentary breakfast all the fresh squeezed orange juice you could drink; a tall glass filled with yogurt and diced fresh fruit, such as papaya, apples and banana; a bowl of granola accompanied by honey and rich milk fresh from the cow; and coffee with more rich milk and sugar.

Breakfasts like that might not be everyday fare in this country, but who says you can’t indulge on a special occasion? Cinco de Mayo weekend offers the perfect opportunity to breakfast Mexican style or to invite friends for a Mexican brunch. Choose from three typical menus. Two are from the state of Veracruz. The third represents Southern California.

The first menu copies a breakfast called Universitario that I often have in Jalapa. There are two possible reasons for the name: The University of Veracruz is in Jalapa, and the breakfast is fairly simple and therefore within the budget of a university student.

It consists of orange juice, which is always freshly squeezed; either black coffee or cafe con leche (hot milk and coffee combined in a glass); and molletes. These are bolillo rolls split in half, spread with refried black beans and topped with melted cheese. Manchego is the preferred cheese, and good California-made Manchegos are available in Mexican markets and some supermarkets here, but Jack can be substituted. The molletes are accompanied by a plain salsa of chopped tomatoes, onion and jalapenos and a basket of pan dulce (sweet rolls).

It’s typical for restaurants in Mexico to offer pan dulce with breakfast. The bread is not free, but you are charged for only what you eat. Similar breads are easy to find in Los Angeles because the city is full of panaderias. Their counters are piled with pan dulce in various shapes and colors, each with its own name. Bolillos are on hand too.

Mexican egg dishes popular on both sides of the border include huevos rancheros--a crisp fried tortilla topped with fried eggs, salsa and cheese, with a side of refried beans--and huevos a la Mexicana--eggs scrambled with tomato, onion and chile.

But Californians seldom see eggs combined with nopalitos (diced cactus). Canned nopalitos make this dish easy, but fresh are better. Latino markets sell fresh cactus paddles peeled, diced or cut in strips and packed in plastic bags. Drop as much as you need for the egg dish into boiling water, boil 5 minutes, drain and refrigerate until needed.

This breakfast starts with strawberries topped with Mexican crema and sugar, a popular dish in strawberry-producing parts of Mexico. Mexican sugar tends to be coarse, which adds an appealing crunchiness. You can use ordinary granulated or brown sugar instead.

Accompany the eggs with refried beans and tortillas. For the beans, borrow the recipe that goes with the Universitario molletes. Sprinkle them with shredded cheese and stud them with tortilla chips. Beans are almost always black in Veracruz, the source of this breakfast menu. They are often cooked with epazote, a strong-tasting herb that is coming into season now. Look for it at farmers markets and large Latino markets.

The California menu begins with wedges of honeydew melon and limes to squeeze over them. The main dish is a quesadilla stuffed with scrambled eggs, cheese and chorizo. Quesadillas are usually folded into a half circle before cooking, but this one is stacked sandwich style, with the filling between two flour tortillas. It is then browned on each side, cut into wedges and topped with sliced avocado, sour cream and salsa. Two people with hefty appetites could eat the whole thing, or it can be cut into smaller portions for four to six.

On the side, serve refried beans or frijoles de la olla, which are whole boiled beans in bowls of bean broth. The beans will have nicer flavor if you cook them with onion, garlic, tomato, a sprig of oregano or dried chiles to taste. Use pinto beans or try the small pale peruano bean carried by many Latino markets.

In Mexico, plates are often garnished with an impromptu salad, perhaps an orange wedge, a tomato slice and shredded carrot arranged on a bed of lettuce, without dressing. Elaborate on this idea by using any fruit in season or lightly cooked vegetables such as green beans or asparagus. If you like, add a citrus-flavored vinaigrette.

Coffee is standard for any of these menus. Big icy margaritas would be welcome at a party, or toast Cinco de Mayo with a sweet sparkling wine, blush wine or sangria.

THE UNIVERSITARIO BREAKFAST

Freshly Squeezed Orange Juice

Molletes

Basket of Pan Dulce

Molletes

Active Work and Total Preparation Time: 10 minutes * Easy

Bolillos are available at Latino bakeries and markets. Manchego cheese can be found at Latino markets and well-stocked grocery stores.

4 bolillo rolls, cut in half lengthwise

Refried Black Beans

1 1/2 cups shredded Manchego cheese

Salsa, for serving

* Spread each half roll with refried beans, dividing evenly. Top each half with about 3 tablespoons shredded cheese. Broil rolls or bake at 350 degrees until cheese is melted, 3 to 4 minutes.

4 servings. Each serving: 455 calories; 736 mg sodium; 40 mg cholesterol; 24 grams fat; 42 grams carbohydrates; 19 grams protein; 0.93 gram fiber.

Refried Black Beans

Active Work Time: 10 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 3 hours * Easy

1 cup dried black beans

1/2 onion, in 1 piece

Water

2 sprigs epazote

Salt

Oil

* Do not pre-soak beans. Wash well and drain. Place in large saucepan. Add onion and 8 cups water. Bring to boil, reduce heat and simmer, loosely covered, 2 hours. Add salt to taste, and epazote. Continue to cook until beans are very soft, 1 to 2 more hours. Add water as needed to keep beans covered.

* When beans are done, heat about 3 tablespoons oil in skillet. Add beans and some of their liquid and mash well. Fry until beans form a soft paste.

4 servings. Each serving: 152 calories; 305 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 11 grams fat; 12 grams carbohydrates; 4 grams protein; 0.82 gram fiber.

BREAKFAST IN MEXICO

Strawberries With Mexican Crema and Sugar

Huevos con Nopalitos

Refried Black Beans

Huevos con Nopalitos

Active Work and Total Preparation Time: 10 minutes * Easy * Vegetarian

Use canned nopalitos, available at well-stocked grocery stores, or packaged fresh nopalitos, found at Latino markets. Fresh nopalitos should be precooked until tender.

8 eggs

Salt, pepper

1 tablespoon oil

1 small onion, finely chopped

1 tomato, seeded and chopped

3/4 cup diced canned or cooked nopalitos

* Beat eggs with salt and pepper to taste.

* Heat oil in large skillet over medium heat. Add onion and saute until almost tender, about 3 minutes. Add tomato and nopalitos and cook 2 minutes. Add eggs and cook until set, stirring gently to combine. Dish onto plates and accompany with beans and tortillas.

4 servings. Each serving: 222 calories; 228 mg sodium; 425 mg cholesterol; 14 grams fat; 11 grams carbohydrates; 14 grams protein; 0.52 gram fiber.

A CALIFORNIA BRUNCH

Honeydew Melon and Lime

Scrambled Egg and Chorizo Quesadilla

Frijoles de la Olla

Scrambled Egg and Chorizo Quesadilla

Active Work and Total Preparation Time: 15 minutes

2 tablespoons butter

4 eggs, beaten

2 (10-inch) flour tortillas

1/2 pound chorizo, cooked and crumbled

1/2 cup grated Manchego or Jack cheese

Avocado slices, for serving

Sour cream, for serving

Salsa, for serving

* Melt 1 tablespoon butter in medium skillet over medium heat. Add eggs and cook, stirring, until eggs are just set but still a little wet. Remove from heat and set aside.

* Melt remaining butter in large skillet over medium-low heat. Put 1 tortilla in skillet, then spread scrambled eggs, chorizo and cheese over top. Top with remaining tortilla. Cook until cheese melts and tortilla is lightly browned, turning once, about 3 to 4 minutes a side.

* Cut into wedges and garnish with avocado slices, sour cream and salsa.

2 servings. Each serving, quesadilla only: 817 calories; 1,604 mg sodium; 556 mg cholesterol; 65 grams fat; 15 grams carbohydrates; 41 grams protein; 0 fiber.

Frijoles de la Olla

Active Work Time: 20 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 3 hours * Easy * Vegetarian

For more flavor, add a couple of California, New Mexico or guajillo chiles to the pot.

1 cup pinto beans

1/2 onion, cut in halves

1 large clove garlic

Salt

* Do not pre-soak beans. Place in Dutch oven or large saucepan and cover generously with water. Add onion and garlic. Bring to a boil, reduce heat and cook, loosely covered, until skins of beans wrinkle, about 90 minutes. Add 1 teaspoon salt or to taste and continue cooking until beans are soft, 2 to 2 1/2 hours. Add water as needed to keep beans covered. With a potato masher or large spoon, mash a few beans, but not all, then continue to cook over medium-low heat until thickened, about 10 minutes. Serve beans in bowls with their juices.

6 servings. Each serving: 37 calories; 205 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 0 fat; 7 grams carbohydrates; 2 grams protein; 0.59 gram fiber.