ORANGE COUNTY DINING

In these capsules of recent reviews, dollar signs indicate the average price of a meal for one, without beverages.

$: less than $10.

$$: up to $20.

$$$: up to $30.

$$$$: more than $30.

DIZZ’S AS IS: Dizz’s As Is has been around since the ‘70s--decades longer, if you count the two previous restaurants, Ford’s Cafe and Polly’s Pizza, that have occupied this location. Locals still line up to eat retro specialties like cheese-stuffed veal chop, steak Diane and swordfish Madagascar (menu changes daily), because seating is on a first-come, first-served basis. The Art Deco dining rooms are a hoot.

* Dizz’s As Is, 2794 S. Coast Highway, Laguna Beach. (949) 494-5250. Dinner only Tuesday-Thursday, 5:30 (seating for dinner at 6)-9:30 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 5:30 (seating for dinner at 6)-10 p.m.; Sunday, 5 (seating for dinner at 5:30)-9:30 p.m. $$$

EL CHOLO CANTINA: In its pleasant hacienda setting, El Cholo Cantina features a pared-down, CliffsNotes version of the El Cholo chain’s tried-and-true menu: cheese-heavy combo plates, nostalgia dishes like the Sonora-style enchilada topped with a fried egg--and, of course, those famous sweet green-corn tamales (May through October only).

* El Cholo Cantina, 5465 Alton Parkway, Irvine. (949) 451-0044. Lunch and dinner daily. $

EL FAROLITO: For 26 years, El Farolito has managed to please two kinds of Mexican food customers: those who want forceful dishes like birria and menudo and those who’re looking for big margaritas and cheese-rich enchiladas and nachos. It’s a plain, friendly little place where even rice and beans are tasty. Check out the excellent steak milanesa.

* El Farolito, 201 S. Bradford Ave., Placentia. (714) 993-7880. Breakfast, lunch and dinner daily. $

FIVE CROWNS: A theme restaurant that has been doing the Olde English inn thing so long it’s acquired a paradoxical authenticity. The food’s more than acceptable too. Salads and appetizers are always good, and you can’t go wrong ordering the roast duck or the prime rib.

* Five Crowns, 3801 E. Coast Highway, Corona del Mar. (949) 760-0331. Dinner daily. $$$

FLORENCE ITALIAN CUISINE: Elegant but casual, Florence Italian Cuisine offers a wide array of Italian favorites with an emphasis on seafood. Try the lobster-filled ravioli de l’aragosta, the filet mignon, the lasagna and the linguine vongole. For dessert, the tiramisu and the spumoni.

* Florence Italian Cuisine 14210 Culver Drive (Heritage Plaza), Irvine. (949) 857-8265. Lunch and dinner daily; brunch Sunday. $$

GIORGIO’S OF CHICAGO: It re-creates classic Chicago dishes--a hot dog on a poppy seed bun with bright green relish, a messy beef sandwich with spicy Italian pickles, barbecued ribs--in the ambience of a Windy City pizza joint. And the best things here are the pizzas, made with Midwestern meats and cheeses.

* Giorgio’s of Chicago, 27000 Alicia Parkway, Laguna Niguel. (949) 448-9899. Lunch and dinner daily. $$

GRAND CAFE WOLFGANG PUCK: This is a dizzyingly eclectic spinoff of Puck’s successful cafe concept, including an express area, a mini-mart and a greatly expanded menu. Many starters, such as sushi, pad Thai and barbecued ribs, are Asian-inspired, to complement a menu of wood-fired pizzas, upscale pastas, rotisserie meats and creative main courses. Desserts, as one might imagine, are solidly appealing and seriously indulgent.

* Grand Cafe Wolfgang Puck, the Block at Orange. (714) 634-9653. Sunday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 11 a.m.-11 p.m.; All major cards. $$$

I LOVE SUSHI: I Love Sushi may sound like a new situation comedy, but it’s really one of Orange County’s best sushi restaurants, and at shockingly low prices. Chef Hideo Matsuda, a true visual artist, has a deft hand with fish; his yellowtail and halibut sashimi are as delicate as you’ll ever taste. Come for lunch, when you’ll easily get a seat at the sushi bar and when the restaurant also serves a variety of hearty rice bowls.

* I Love Sushi, 2340 Harbor Blvd., Costa Mesa. (714) 540-6195. Lunch daily, 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.; dinner Sunday-Thursday, 5-10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 5-11 p.m. $$

INDIA COOK HOUSE: One of our more cheerful Indian restaurants, though it holds no real surprises. The best dishes here are the meats and bread cooked in the tandoor, or cylindrical clay oven. But there are also good chutneys, vindaloos, a few nice vegetable dishes and fine homemade desserts. Don’t miss gulab jamun, gold-colored cheese balls served warm in syrup.

* India Cook House, 14130 Culver Drive, Irvine. (949) 857-4858. Daily, 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m., 5-10 p.m. $$

JAVIER’S CANTINA: This restaurant bridges the gap between taqueria authenticity and the happy-hour chips-and-salsa scene. Familiar Mexican specialties are here, but it’s the seafood specials like brocheta del mar and the sweet, powerfully corn-flavored green-corn tamale that make dealing with Laguna Beach parking worth it.

* Javier’s Cantina & Grill, 480 S. Coast Highway, Laguna Beach. (949) 494-1239. Lunch and dinner daily. $$

LEFT AT ALBUQUERQUE: With its blues soundtrack, Southwestern decor and eclectic cooking style, this eatery is a bit of an odd duck. The menu features a variety of mesquite-grilled meats and fish, along with a huge list of premium tequilas. Try the griddled corn cake appetizer, the Asian-tasting grilled Dixon pork.

* Left at Albuquerque, 3309 Michelson Drive, Irvine. (949) 757-7600. Sundays-Thursdays, 11 a.m.-10 p.m.; Fridays and Saturdays, 11 a.m.-11 p.m. $$

LUCIANA’S: Luciana’s has been around since the early ‘80s, but this rustic European restaurant is now managed by a new generation. Chef Brett Young serves a combination of old Italian recipes and more modern spinoffs. Especially good are his fagiolini verdi, fried green beans, tomato bread soup (zuppa campagnola) and delicious double-thick grilled pork chop glazed with balsamic vinegar.

* Luciana’s, 24312 Del Prado, Dana Point. (949) 661-6500. Dinner only Sunday-Thursday, 5-10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 5-11 p.m. $$$

MAMA ROSE: Walking into Mama Rose is like walking into a family Italian restaurant back East. The three cozy dining rooms are themed separately, and the walls are covered with intimate family portraits. Chef Richard Lombardi’s cooking is in the abbondanza style: big portions with lots of sauce, oil and garlic. The best dishes include stuffed dried tomatoes, roasted peppers and pistachio-crusted rack of lamb.

* Mama Rose, 2346 Newport Blvd., Costa Mesa. (949) 650-1949. Dinner only Tuesday-Saturday, 5-10 p.m. $$-$$$

MANGGA GRILL: Mangga Grill specializes in the cuisine of the Philippines, perhaps the original fusion cooking of Asia, and does so with imaginative style. All the traditional favorites, such as adobo stew and crispy pata (fried pork leg), are done to perfection here, and honey-stung chicken, made with Manila rum sauce, is a treat. Don’t miss halo-halo, a parfait glass filled with shaved ice and a half dozen exotic tropical toppings--including purple yam ice cream.

* Mangga Grill, 341 E. 1st St., Tustin. (714) 730-1332. Tuesday-Friday, 11 a.m.-9:30 p.m.; Saturday and Sunday, 10:30 a.m.-9:30 p.m. $$

McCORMICK & SCHMICK’S: There are 40 or more kinds of fresh seafood on this menu, served in nearly 90 treatments. The inventive appetizer menu is highlighted by excellent crab-and-shrimp cakes, and the oyster selection is still one of the best around. The adjacent Pilsner Room brew pub serves an impressive list of microbrews.

* McCormick & Schmick’s, 2000 Main St., Irvine. (949) 756-0505. Lunch Monday-Friday, dinner daily. $$

MITSUYOSHI: There’s a sushi bar here, but the appetizers are better, especially the baked pike and the potato porridge (yamakake) with chunks of tuna sashimi. Thin-cut pork cutlets (shoga-yaki) come in a tangy ginger sauce, and there’s a massive sukiyaki and a festive nabemono soup filled with meats, vegetables and noodles.

* Mitsuyoshi, 12033 Beach Blvd., Stanton. (714) 898-2156. Lunch and dinner Tuesday-Sunday. $$

MULBERRY STREET RISTORANTE: A cozy, welcoming setting for robust, old-school Italian food. It’s notable for dishes that achieve simple harmony through a deft balance of flavors. For appetizers, try the fried mozzarella and the steamed mussels. Exceptional entrees include the steak Mulberry and the fettuccine Caruso.

* Mulberry Street Ristorante, 114 W. Wilshire Ave., Fullerton. (714) 525-1056. Lunch Monday-Saturday; dinner served daily. Late night menu served Friday and Saturday until 12:45 a.m. $$

NICO’S: Sonny Bono’s daughter owns an Italian restaurant (Christy’s) in Long Beach, and now Christy also runs Nico’s, a contemporary American bistro on Naples island. Her father, once a restaurant owner himself, trained her well. Nico’s is chic and modern, with winning decor and fine food. Try the Nico salad and the best bread pudding around.

* Nico’s, 5760 E. 2nd St., Long Beach. (562) 434-4479. Dinner only, Sunday-Thursday, 5-10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 5-11 p.m. $$$

OAK OVEN BARBECUE: The attraction at Lou’s Oak Oven Barbecue is Santa Maria-style barbecued tri-tip. But you can also get chicken, pork loin and Portuguese sausage. The food comes on metal camping plates and drinks, including wine, are served in Mason jars, but it’s 200 miles closer than Santa Maria.

* Lou’s Oak Oven Barbecue, 21501 Brookhurst St., Huntington Beach. (714) 965-5200. Lunch and dinner Tuesday-Sunday. $

ON THE BORDER and OSCAR’S: Across the parking lot from one another at the Market Place, On the Border and Oscar’s represent two chains new to our area. One is a Cal-Mex joint with great fajitas, lots of deep-fried appetizers and not much soul. The other is a family-run, kid-oriented operation with forgettable pizzas, good salads and what might be the best baked chicken on the planet.

* On the Border, 13772 Jamboree Road, Irvine. (714) 508-1060. Sunday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 11 a.m.-11 p.m. $$. Oscar’s, 13786 Jamboree Road, Irvine. (714) 505-6070. Sunday-Thursday, 10:30 a.m.-9 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 10:30 a.m.-10 p.m. $$

OPAH: Opah is the latest restaurant from architect Mark Singer and his Peruvian-born wife, Miriam, and has made an immediate impact on the South County dining scene. The cuisine is eclectic and the decor stylish, factors that draw a young, well-dressed crowd. Crab cakes and a delicious oyster po’boy are among the best dishes, but several main courses are lackluster.

* Opah, 26851 Aliso Creek Road, Suite C, Aliso Viejo. (949) 360-8822. Sunday-Thursday, 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m. $$$

OSTERIA DABBASSO: Osteria Dabbasso, in the old Kachina space, is an art-filled Laguna basement serving some of the biggest Italian dishes in the county. Come for the salads, imaginative pastas and good meat courses.

* Osteria Dabbasso, 222 Forest Ave., Laguna Beach. (949) 494-0495. Sunday-Thursday, 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m. $$

OYSTERS: “Asian-influenced California cuisine”--well, you can’t blame Oysters for wanting to distance itself from all the bad fusion cuisine around. But this spot, with its Chicago speak-easy ambience, could give fusion a good name with dishes like artichoke with tarragon sambal-aioli and Near East paella. Good oysters too, of course.

* Oysters, 2515 E. Coast Highway, Corona del Mar. (949) 675-7411. Open for dinner daily. $$

THE PERUVIAN GRILL: It specializes not so much in grilled food as in in Peruvian seafood dishes, such as ceviche appetizers large enough for a small meal and pescado ajo macho, a grilled fish topped with scallops, shrimp, calamari and a spicy cilantro sauce. Empanadas, not listed on the menu, are also worth a try.

* The Peruvian Grill, 9606 Hamilton St., Huntington Beach. (714) 593-3883. Dinner Monday-Saturday. $$

P.F. CHANG’S CHINA BISTRO: It serves Asian-inspired dishes in a high-voltage setting--and the dishes can be high-voltage with pepper themselves. Good appetizers are seared ahi and Chang’s spare ribs. The best entree is Paul’s catfish: tender chunks of fried catfish tossed with a garlicky black bean sauce. Desserts are outstanding.

* P.F. Chang’s China Bistro, Irvine Spectrum Center, 61 Fortune Drive. (949) 453-1211; Fashion Island, 1145 Newport Center Drive, Newport Beach, (949) 759-9007. Lunch and dinner daily. $$

PICAYO: Hidden away in residential north Laguna, a little bungalow houses Picayo, a French restaurant with Spanish and Moroccan influences and a taste for duck, both as appetizer and entree. Try Chilean sea bass on eggplant with olive vinaigrette, or the napoleon of scallops, prawns and salmon with black truffle sauce.

* Picayo, 1155 N. Coast Highway, Laguna Beach. (949) 497-5051. Dinner Tuesday-Saturday. $$$