How Close is (White) Burgundy to California?

Whenever there is a warm summer in France, the wine world starts bubbling about a “California vintage,” meaning the grapes will be well-ripened and the wines will be a little rounder and fleshier than in normal years. This was said about the red Burgundies of 1997 and now the same line is being trotted out for the white Burgundy vintage of 1999.

The notion that a ripe year in France is a California vintage is flattering, I guess, but so far it has been misleading. Last year we tasted a bunch of 1997 red Burgundies from some well-regarded producers alongside their California Pinot Noir counterparts, and they proved to be very different wines. Though the Burgundies may have been somewhat fatter and fruitier than normal, they did not come close to their California cousins. They were, in a word, French, and our wines were, well, Californian.

This year we had a tasting of white Burgundies alongside a few California Chardonnays, and again our tasting panel found significant differences between the wines, even though we were occasionally fooled by wines from both places. We purposely chose California wines that are lower in alcohol and higher in acidity--in other words, made in the Burgundian style. Still, more often than not, the riper and fruitier California wines showed for what they were.

We came away with no clear preference for France over California or vice versa, at least not at the price level we were tasting. Those who prefer the riper, richer style of Chardonnay will choose California; those who favor leaner and more elegant wines will choose Burgundy. The rest of us are free to enjoy both.

It must also be pointed out that while there are some bargains available, Burgundy is a small place, and its wines are in great demand so inexpensive wines are a little harder to come by than here in California.

* 1999 Henri Boillot, Meursault, 1er Cru, “Les Charmes,” $45. I have never heard a better overall description of Meursault than that offered by the late Alexis Lichine, who said in his invaluable encyclopedia: “Soft, round and feminine in texture, dry but not as dry as the steely Chablis, they have a quiet luxuriousness.” Boillot’s “Les Charmes,” from one of the better vineyards in Meursault, reminds me of Chablis in its minerally, chalky nature but has more substance and richness without giving up its delicacy. California has a hard time making this kind of understated yet involving Chardonnay.

1999 Jean-Marc Boillot, Puligny-Montrachet, 1er Cru, “Les Referts,” $54. This wine is a bit of a surprise. It has a very noticeable level of sugary sweetness, which I do not expect of White Burgundy. While it is so soft and round that it might be difficult to pair with food, it is quite enjoyable with outgoing aromas and flavors of lemon custard, sweet cream and creme brulee toastiness.

$* 1999 Michel Colin-Deleger et Fils, St. Aubin, 1er Cru, “Le Charmois,” $14. St. Aubin, located south of Meursault behind a row of hills, is on the long list of lesser white Burgundy growing areas. Nevertheless, as this one shows, attractive wines can come from St. Aubin, and when they do, they are bargains. The Colin-Deleger version is liberally appointed with toasty oak and carries a brightening acid edge to its apple-y flavors. It may not be the most intense of the one-star wines in this list, but it is very well-made and promises to be quite satisfying.

1999 Rene et Vincent Dauvissat, Chablis, Grand Cru, “Les Preuses,” $40. A light dressing of sweet oak enriches the lemony, stony, minerally aromas of this crisply balanced Chablis. It does a good job of hitting the classic marks expected of a real Chablis; still, in this vintage at least, it comes up a bit riper and not quite so austere. The wine’s quiet complexity, impeccable balance and long aftertaste suggest that it will age well.

1999 Marius Delarche, Corton-Charlemagne “Reserve,” $100. The village of Corton is known for red wines, but the Corton-Charlemagne appellation is a small subsection where big, rich and firm-textured whites of great depth and longevity are grown. Indeed, many observers have argued that Corton-Charlemagne is the second best white of Burgundy, trailing only Montrachet itself. This version from Delarche just misses out on two stars, despite its deep and expansive aromas of ripe apples, creamy oak, wisps of smoke, stones and nuts and the chalky minerality of its flavors. It is a bit tightly bound at this point, but Corton-Charlemagnes open with age.

$** 1999 Bernard Morey, Chassagne-Montrachet, 1er Cru, “Les Morgeots,” $35. To my mind, Chassagne-Montrachet is often the least interesting of the hyphenated Montrachets, but here is a wine that is a real bargain, at least relative to other Montrachets. It seems to have benefited from the ripeness of the year and delivers plenty of flavor despite being less full and rich than some of its neighbors. I like its bright, green apple and pear fragrances and the clean earth and mineral highlights in its balanced, long-lasting flavors.

** 1999 Paul Pernot, Bienvenues-Batard-Montrachet, $100. This is a rich, wonderfully complex and subtle wine with fruit scents hinting at peaches, limes, and nectarines filled out by oaky, roasted grain and stony notes. One could argue that it heads off in the direction of California (indeed, many California wines are not as rich and ripe), but this wine never gets fleshy or flabby and it enjoys a suggestion of delicacy to blend with its weight.

$* 1999 Francine et Olivier Savary, Chablis, “Selection Vieilles Vignes,” $16. If this is a less dramatic version of Chablis, it still shows the stony, steely, somewhat austere character of the region. Typically a bit narrow in flavor, it does have an extra bit of roundness to its texture because of the vintage. At this price, it is a wonderful alternative to California Chardonnay for those who like their wines on the more structured side.

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*** A world-class wine, superb by any measure, the top 1% to 2% of all wines tasted.

** A exceptional wine, well worth the effort to find, 10% to 12% of wines tasted.

* An admirable wine, tasty, focused, attractive about 25% of wines tasted.

No Rating: The best are quite pleasant and can be good buys when moderately priced.

$ Good value for the money.

x Below average quality, to be avoided.

*

This column is based on tasting conducted by Connoisseur’s Guide to California Wine, a monthly newsletter devoted to the critical review of California and West coast wines. Readers of The Times may obtain a sample copy by sending their name and address to: CGCW, P.O. Box V, Alameda, CA 94501, by calling or faxing (510) 865-3150 or by e-mailing CGCW@aol.com.