IN THE MOOD

Bite into one of these pastries, and you find a cool surprise: ice cream in nearly every mouthful.

* Ammo: The ice cream sandwich here is two dark, crisp Valrhona chocolate cookies with a frozen filling. Depending on the day, that may be espresso gelato or mint ice cream. The espresso sandwich is surrounded by golden butterscotch, the mint version with creme de menthe. (Ice cream sandwich, $6.) Ammo, 1155 N. Highland Ave., Los Angeles, (323) 871-2666.

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* The Standard: These are like no profiteroles you’ve ever had. Balls of puff pastry the size of a fist are split and filled with hazelnut ice cream, reassembled and drizzled with hot fudge sauce. (Profiteroles with hazelnut ice cream and hot fudge sauce, $6.) The Standard, the Standard Hotel, 8300 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, (323) 650-9090.

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* Rock: The Nutella panini is freshly baked raisin bread spread with an Italian hazelnut-chocolate sauce, grilled in the sandwich press and served hot with vanilla ice cream and caramelized bananas. (Nutella panini, $5.50.) Rock, Villa Marina Marketplace, 13455 Maxella Ave., Marina del Rey, (310) 822-8979.

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* Back Pocket: Two pieces of filo, a crisp layer of meringue, a scoop of fresh vanilla ice cream and some delicate strawberry puree: It’s light, sweet and simply delicious. (Phyllo and meringue, $9.) Back Pocket, South Coast Plaza Village, 3851 S. Bear St., Santa Ana, (714) 668-1737.

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* JiRaffe: Pastry chef Artemio Sanchez’s coffee semifreddo is a sort of ice cream cake: moist devil’s food cake filled with an espresso mousse, frozen, thawed just enough and then served with chocolate sauce on the side. If chocolate isn’t your passion, try the bachein : delicate almond cake filled with sour cream sorbet, topped with vanilla ice cream, covered in meringue and served in a pool of sauteed blueberries. (Coffee semifreddo , $7 bachein , $7.) JiRaffe, 502 Santa Monica Blvd., Santa Monica, (310) 917-6671.

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* Bouchon: Four golden puffs of choux pastry arrive on a lovely white dish, covered in a dark chocolate sauce and sprinkled with chocolate shavings. Cut them open and you’ll find smooth, rich vanilla ice cream. (Profiteroles, $7.) Bouchon, 7661 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles, (323) 852-9400.