Fit for Three Kings

Jan. 6, the feast of the Three Kings, is the day Mexican children receive gifts, and everyone eats a slice of the ring-shaped bread called rosca de reyes. A tiny doll is baked inside, and the person who gets that slice is obligated to give a party. La Morenita Tortilleria and Bakery in Cypress Park acknowledges the economic climate by baking two or three dolls in the larger of its two roscas so that several people can share the cost of the party. Crusted with sugar, the golden roscas are handsomely decorated with strips of guava and quince paste, small whole figs and red and green candied cherries.

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Rosca de reyes, small (eight to 10 servings) $6, large (16 to 20 servings) $12 at La Morenita Tortilleria and Bakery, 1157 Cypress Ave., Los Angeles. (323) 222-7953.

--Barbara Hansen