Charlie's Kosher Delicatessen, one of the string of kosher delis, bakeries and restaurants on Pico Boulevard near Beverly Hills, sells fresh, hot potato latkes. Along with finely cut potatoes, the latkes include eggs, a bit of onion and flour. To go with them, try the coleslaw. It's not overpowered with dressing, tastes faintly sweet and has a nice nip from horseradish.
Potato latkes, 75 cents; coleslaw, $3 a pound at Charlie's Kosher Delicatessen, 9124 W. Pico Blvd., Los Angeles. (310) 271-2472.