Quiet, Please, We’re Trying to Have a Peaceful Meal

A reader writes: Noise in restaurants is a real issue with me. I don’t like to spend theevening shouting across the table. Where can I find a place quiet enough for real conversation?

Answer: Restaurants do seem to be noisier than ever. Some of it is due to design and the desire for a sleek, contemporary look, which often means hard surfaces, with no carpet or drapes to absorb the sound. Tables crammed closely together only increase the effect.

Often, though, restaurateurs consider a lively noise level as something positive. It signifies high energy and gives the illusion, at least, that this is where the action is. It also has another advantage I’ve noticed: A raucous sound level quickly moves into sensory overload, making it more difficult to concentrate on the taste of the food. Under these circumstances, it’s much easier to take in the look of a dish than its flavors, which may be one reason why there’s such an emphasis lately on eccentric, extravagantly garnished dishes.

Some diners are unnerved by quiet. I remember going to a two-star restaurant in the south of France on a weekday out of season. There was only one other couple in the place and the room was dead silent. When we found ourselves whispering, we decided to flee to the garden where we proceeded to have a wonderfully relaxed, festive lunch. Not that I don’t like quiet. I just don’t want it funereal.

In general, hotel restaurants tend to be less noisy than most. Their designs are often more traditional, with thick carpets, soft cushions, and yards and yards of drapes to muffle the sound. Because hotel restaurants don’t necessarily have to make a profit, tables are widely spaced, which ensures privacy--something else that’s hard to find at most restaurants. Belvedere at the Peninsula Beverly Hills, Gardens in the Four Seasons Hotel in Los Angeles and the restaurant at the Ritz-Carlton Laguna Niguel come to mind.

To ensure a more serene dining experience regardless of the restaurant, you can opt to go early, or late, when the dining room is less likely to be packed. Or go for breakfast or lunch instead of dinner. Why not catch up over a late, leisurely lunch on the terrace at Hotel Bel-Air, for example?

Go out on a weekday night instead of the weekend. You’ll have your choice of tables, and can probably get a reservation exactly when you want it. Fewer large parties makes for a quieter dining experience.

Off the top of my head, here are a few restaurants that, in general, are more soothing, sound-wise, than most:

* Cayo in Pasadena.

* Aubergine in Newport Beach.

* Josie in Santa Monica.

* Joss in Beverly Hills.

* Restaurant Devon in Monrovia.

Sometimes the right table will make all the difference. Booths with high backs help to isolate the sound. I’m thinking of those at the Grill in Beverly Hills or the Water Grill in downtown L.A. Also, outdoor terraces, patios, and gardens tend to be quieter than inside. Just remember to ask for a table outside when you make your reservation--and don’t forget a sweater or a wrap. Check out these outdoor venues:

* The garden at Michael’s in Santa Monica.

* The little garden and porch at Chadwick in Beverly Hills.

* The garden at Les Deux Cafes in Hollywood.

* The outside patio at Granita in Malibu.

* An outdoor table at Rockenwagner in Santa Monica.