Club has the look, but will it cook?

Last month and this, there’s been a flurry of openings as restaurateurs rush to fling open their doors before the end of the year. A few weeks ago, a new place called Avenue moved into the long-empty space on the corner of Dayton and Canon drives in Beverly Hills -- the same address where the Italian import Bice floundered in the ‘90s, as did several less memorable restaurants that followed.

Maybe this one will stick around. It certainly looks the part. Designer Dodd Mitchell (Sushi Roku, Katana, Linq) has ingeniously restructured the room, transforming it into a glamorous supper club that seats 60, with more seating on the patio.

From the outside, Avenue looks dark and mysterious, and when you walk through the door, it feels as if you’re crashing a private party. In the bar, the young Hollywood set lounges on suede ottomans and leather banquets. Avenue is owned by venture capitalists-entrepreneurs Darin Feinstein and Bevan Cooney, who have been involved with El Dorado in Brentwood, Drake’s in Venice and Blueberry in Santa Monica.

The dining tables follow the curve of the tall, two-story windows. The night is closed off by astonishing suede drapes with enough yardage to cover a circus tent. It’s an incredibly sensual effect, heightened by chocolate leather banquettes and seductive suede-covered menus.

The chef is Andrew DeGroot, who cooked at the French bistro Pastis before he was lured over to Casa del Mar to become opening chef of the Santa Monica hotel. His menu for Avenue is more or less American comfort food with some exotic accents thrown in for effect.

DeGroot is pulling out all the stops, and while the result has been mixed, some of the ideas are interesting. For example, he braises Manila clams in Viognier with chorizo, garlic and cilantro. He makes a stuffed Japanese eggplant tart with Manchego cheese and rosemary. Roasted free-range chicken comes with whipped parsnip potato and roasted garlic jus, and a grilled pork chop is accompanied by salsify and a macaroni gratin with apple wood-smoked bacon.

Like many trendy restaurants, Avenue counts on its high-concept design to create a buzz. Wouldn’t it be sweet if the food turned out to bring in people on its own?

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Avenue

Where: 301 N. Canon Drive, Beverly Hills.

Hours: Lunch, 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. Monday through Friday; dinner, 6 to 11 p.m. Monday through Saturday. Full bar, open until 2 a.m. Valet parking.

Cost: Dinner appetizers, $8 to $21; main courses, $24 to $38; eight-course tasting menu, $95 per person.

Info: (310) 275-2900.