What’s Best to Buy at the Markets

The big summer harvests are still weeks away, but that certainly doesn’t mean farmers markets are dull. Here’s a guide to what’s best right now.

VEGETABLES

Artichokes: The leaves should squeak when rubbed together, and make a satisfying snap when broken off the head. Don’t worry about blackening on the surface if its not accompanied by softening--it’s the result of the vegetable’s natural enzymes.

Beets: If the greens are crisp and fresh, the beets will be good too. For beets sold without the tops, nick the peel with your thumbnail; it should be thin enough to pierce easily.

Carrots: The thumbnail test is also the best way to buy carrots--old ones will have a thick, tough peel. Carrot tops are not always reliable indicators because they can stay green and fresh-looking for a surprising length of time (if they’re wilted, definitely choose something else).

Cucumbers: Cucumbers tend to wilt, which is why the supermarkets usually wax them--to hold in their moisture. The heavier the cucumber, the fresher it’s likely to be.

Fennel: Really fresh heads are bright white. The bulbs yellow as they get older.

Green Beans: Choose beans that are crisp and snap cleanly when broken in half.

New Potatoes: As with beets and carrots, use the fingernail test.

Peas and Fava Beans: Whether you’re buying favas, English peas, sugar snap peas or snow peas, look for firm, unblemished pods that are vibrant green. Color and crispness are the first things to go.

Squash: Choose squash that are firm and unblemished. Really fresh zucchini--as wondrous a vegetable as there is--will be covered with a fine fuzz.

Greens: Choose bunches with leaves that are crispest. Avoid those with yellowing leaves or where the stems are cracking at the bottom--a sure sign they’ve been stored too long.

FRUITS

Apricots: Most of the early varieties of apricots that we’re seeing right now are rather disappointing. Look for the antique varieties Royal or Blenheim at farmers markets in another couple of weeks--they’re infinitely better than most commercial apricots, though more delicate. Pick apricots that are golden orange and avoid any that are green--they won’t be as sweet. Really ripe apricots are quite soft, but even fairly firm ones will continue to ripen after they’ve been picked.

Cherries: Color is the key: the darkest red cherries will have the best flavor. Be sure the stems are green and pliable, rather than brown and woody.

Strawberries: When you’re at the farmers market, keep an eye out for Chandler berries--the most popular commercial variety only four or five years ago but now about as scarce as Blenheim apricots. Though inconvenient for growers, they have incomparable flavor. At the supermarket, you’re most likely to find Camarosa berries, which are at their best when they are so dark they are almost black.