Wine and cheese aficionados revel in closed-door sessions

A burly guy in denim shirt and matching denim apron prowls the room, holding up a round object wrapped in foil.

“Got that?” he says. “Great Hill Blue is made from unpasteurized raw cow’s milk from Massachusetts. The St. Agur is also cow’s milk, just like Fourme d’Ambert, but this one has 60% or higher butterfat.” Groans from those of us who have zeroed in on this delicious blue, polishing it off before the rest of the cheeses on Plate 2.

The 40 or so participants seated at tables covered in green and white tablecloths scribble notes, taste and hold out their glasses for the next wine. “Boys and girls, remember Chateauneuf always has the embossed keys on the bottle,” our instructor, Tony, cajoles as we try the 1999 Chateauneuf against a 1989 Cornas.

At the beginning of the evening, the mood is impressively serious. One hour in, it has degenerated into boisterous, and I’m sure everyone dutifully eating their skinless chicken at Koo Koo Roo on Beverly Drive is wondering what’s going on in that back garden room. Whatever it is, they must think, it sounds like fun.

This Koo Koo Roo is where the Cheese Store of Beverly Hills, the impressively well-stocked shop a few doors up the street, holds a series of informal wine and cheese evenings two or three times a month. This one, on a Wednesday night, is already sold out when a place opens up at a friend’s table. I’m in luck.

Each tasting is themed, and the one I happen to be attending is “Rhone Wines and Blue Cheeses” ($35 per person). It didn’t take much persuading to get me here to try 10 different blues and seven wines. It’s a relaxed and unintimidating way to learn more about both wine and cheese. Not to mention fun.

For me, the discovery of the evening is a gentle, crumbly cow’s milk cheese from the Savoie called Bleu de Termignon, and the two American blues. That salty, smelly one from Old Chatham in upper-state New York holds its own against Roquefort.

The wine this evening is from Beaune Imports. And to finish things off, owner Norbert Wabnig and company have boiled red potatoes in their skins and served them with a slice of French ham, cornichons and a sauce made from four or five blues, creme fraiche and “another pound of butter.” We pretend we didn’t hear that last part.

At 9, those enthusiasts who wish to continue can enjoy a 10% discount on everything at the Cheese Store up the block.

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Next tasting

The next event for the Cheese Store of Beverly Hills will be a “Holiday Spectacular” at which Champagnes, Ports, Sauternes, caviar, foie gras, smoked salmon and cheese will be tasted ($60). It will be held at Hermes in Beverly Hills on Nov. 18 to 20. The tastings skip December, but for January’s schedule, call the shop at (310) 278-2855. Reservations are essential.