A golden tradition

IF California has an emblematic Christmas feast, a holiday tradition that captures the spirit and history of this state of displaced people, it might well be the Bracebridge Dinner at Yosemite’s Ahwahnee hotel.

Surrounded by some of the most stunning scenery in the West, the meal is, of all things, an elaborate, old English feast with “peacock pie” and plum pudding served by a cast dressed in velvets and satins and enough rhinestones to make Nashville envious.

In other words, like so much in this state, Bracebridge is a fantasy. But fantasies transplanted into the soil here tend to take root, eventually becoming as California as the Sierra. And after 76 years, Bracebridge has become the state’s most storied holiday celebration, a dinner Californians grow up hearing about but few ever get to attend.

The point of Bracebridge, says Andrea Fulton, the director of the dinner, has always been “to give people a sense of the wonderful feeling of the Christmas that never was but we all dream of.”

Seven courses are dictated in the original menu -- which was based on Christmas stories by Washington Irving -- starting with a plate of pickled relishes, followed by a hot soup, a fish course, the peacock pie, baron of beef and boar’s head, and a salad course. Dessert is always plum pudding and wassail.

But in the true tradition of California cooking, the Ahwahnee’s executive chef, Terry Sheehan, has reinterpreted that menu. Now it’s more like Alice Waters than Washington Irving, a meal that reflects the yearning so many of us have for the mythic Dickensian-style Christmas dinner, as well as the genuine appeal of West Coast seasonal cooking.

“I wanted to keep it natural, not over-manipulated, clean,” says Sheehan.

This year, when guests first sit down at their tables, they will find a relish plate with oil-cured California olives scented with oregano, rosemary, sage and thyme. There will also be baby artichokes from Castroville poached in a court-bouillon and marinated in lemon vinaigrette with fresh fennel, coriander and oregano. They are served with a medley of gold, orange and red baby carrots.

Sheehan’s soup is a luxurious version of mulligatawny, a richly flavored puree of butternut squash with green apples and spiced with curry, ginger and lemon grass. It actually tastes celebratory.

The flavors, he says, “keep opening up with each spoonful. The seasonings and flavors build on each other.”

The old “baron of beef and boar’s head,” fortunately, has been updated to a very elegant roast beef tenderloin rolled in crunchy pistachios. It’s put over the top with a splash of bearnaise demi-glace that’s infused with plenty of tarragon.

“Beef doesn’t need to be over-cured, over-brined, over-spiced,” says Sheehan. “The simple toasted pistachios add a nice nutty flavor without doing anything else to the meat.”

Sheehan finishes the dish with stacked slices of white sweet potato seasoned lightly with allspice, ginger and nutmeg -- “It’s not a pumpkin pie; these are subtle flavors,” he says -- and an earthy side dish of beets cooked in an orange juice reduction tempered with clove.

Then it’s on to the “peacock pie” course.

For that, Sheehan plans a bit of culinary showmanship: veal sweetbreads, pheasant dumplings, and seared squab breast with a wild mushroom ragout and truffle sauce.

“This is the course with the most latitude,” says Sheehan. In other words, anything fowl.

His salad leans more toward a cheese and fruit plate than a tangle of garden greens. A soft, warm custard made with Mine Shaft Blue -- a blue cheese aged in the gold mines of Sonora -- accompanies a Chardonnay-poached pear accented with ginger, allspice and nutmeg.

The plum pudding and wassail, though, remain intact.

Over the years, the pudding has been tinkered with to create a gooier, sweeter dessert, but no Ahwahnee chef has ever dared trade it for a more contemporary one.

“It’s a dense, almost fruitcake, dessert that has been soaked in brandy syrup,” says Sheehan. He serves it with apricot sauce and, of course, the requisite hard sauce.

The recipe for the flaming wassail, more of a mulled wine than a traditional punch, has been passed down from chef to chef. Dried hibiscus, Sheehan says, is the secret ingredient -- “It gives it that dark burgundy color.” Apple cider, port wine, clove and cinnamon are the other ingredients.

Ansel Adams’ party

As set in tradition as it is, the Bracebridge dinner actually began as a whim, a trifle, the idea of a park administrator who wanted the Ahwahnee hotel’s first Christmas in 1927 to be memorable. The soaring ceiling of the new hotel’s dining hall reminded him of the mythical Bracebridge Hall in Washington Irving’s series of “Sketch Book” Christmas stories depicting 17th century England, providing an excuse for dressing up in medieval costumes to enjoy an evening of food, theater and song.

Ansel Adams, Yosemite’s great photographer, took over the show in 1929 and livened up the script to make it more than Irving’s nostalgic sop to Christmas in Britain.

“Ansel was totally visual; it was about the pageantry and the music,” says Fulton, the dinner director. In Adams’ version, Squire Bracebridge became a man of noblesse oblige, more the lord of the party than Irving’s mannered aristocrat.

Over the years, Adams’ whimsical spoof has been expanded, growing more rollicking and less reverential. For three hours, the singing, eating, laughing and drinking accompanied by an organ, a flute and a guitar move at a frenetic pace.

Adams directed Bracebridge for 44 years, retiring from the post in 1973, when he passed the baton to Eugene Fulton. Fulton’s daughter, Andrea, took over in 1978. The squire now is a prodigal son, and the pageant is the celebration of his return to Bracebridge Hall and the return of happier times. The story isn’t the only thing that has changed.

In Adams’ day, fruit compote was the first course, and the salad was always green. The soup was a simple consomme that most people just skipped. It was Middle American fare, with an emphasis on abundant portions of meat and potatoes.

Back then, and for most of its history, it was a gathering of regulars -- if you were lucky enough to get in during the pre-World War II years, your place was assured.

From 1977 until last year, however, everyone else had to rely on chance. People sent in their requests for tickets and then waited several months to see if they won the lottery-style drawing to be able to buy Bracebridge tickets.

As of 2002, it’s first-come, first-served.

For Carolyn Hause, like many of those who will attend this year’s dinner, Bracebridge is a tradition that goes back decades. Her great-aunt first took the family to the dinner in 1934 when Hause’s father, George, was 6 years old.

It’s still a formal affair that requires everyone to dress in their holiday finest, at minimum. More flamboyant types wear elaborate medieval costumes or full military regalia. There has even been the odd Scottish highlander in a breezy kilt.

Last year, the dinner was expanded to eight nights (originally it was just Christmas night). It still sells out, but it’s much more possible to get a seat at the table.

Today, Adams’ drama is a populist comedy punctuated by emotional reminders of the need for generosity ... with great production values. It’s as California as you get.

The Bracebridge Dinner is sold out for this year. Reservations for 2004 can be booked starting Feb. 2 at 8 a.m., at (559) 252-4848. The 2004 dinners will be held Dec. 15, 16, 18, 19, 21, 22, 24 and 25.

*

(BEGIN TEXT OF INFOBOX)

Butternut squash ‘mulligatawny’

Total time: 2 hours

Servings: 10 to 12

Note: From executive chef Terry Sheehan at the Ahwahnee hotel.

1 large (4-pound) or 2 medium (2-pound) butternut squash

2 tablespoons, plus 2 teaspoons olive oil, divided

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

3 cups apple juice

2 tart green apples, cored, diced (about 3 cups)

3 cloves garlic, minced

3/4 cup diced carrots

3/4 cup diced celery

1 1/2 cups diced onion

1 tablespoon chopped fresh ginger

1 tablespoon chopped fresh lemon grass

1 bay leaf

1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme

1 tablespoon curry powder

2 tablespoons uncooked basmati rice

4 cups chicken stock

1 cup heavy cream

1 cup plain yogurt

1 tablespoon chopped cilantro

1. Cut the squash in half lengthwise, remove the seeds and brush the insides with 2 teaspoons of olive oil. Season with the salt and pepper. Place the squash cut side down on an ungreased baking sheet and roast in a 400-degree oven until tender, about 55 minutes. When the squash is done, cool and scoop the pulp out of the skin. Set aside.

2. Meanwhile, heat the apple juice in a medium saucepan. Add the diced apples and poach until tender, about 4 to 5 minutes. Strain the apples from the juices, setting aside the apples to use later. Continue to boil the juice rapidly until it is reduced to 2 cups, about 15 minutes; set aside.

3. In a heavy, 5-quart saucepan, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil. Add the garlic, carrots, celery and onion and saute until the vegetables are tender, about 10 minutes.

4. Add the ginger, lemon grass, bay leaf, thyme, curry powder and rice. Cook, stirring constantly, over high heat for 2 to 3 minutes, until the mixture is fragrant and the spices coat the vegetables.

5. Add the chicken stock, heavy cream, reduced apple juice and squash pulp. Stir to combine. Bring the mixture to a boil, then reduce to a simmer. Cover, and cook until the flavors are blended, about 30 minutes.

6. Remove and discard the bay leaf. Working in batches and using a blender, carefully puree the mixture or use a stick blender and puree the soup in the stock pot.

7. Spoon the soup into bowls and garnish each with a swirl of yogurt, a sprinkling of cilantro and a spoonful of diced apples.

Each of 12 servings: 213 calories; 3 grams protein; 28 grams carbohydrates; 4 grams fiber; 11 grams fat; 5 grams saturated fat; 28 mg. cholesterol; 266 mg. sodium.

*

Pistachio-crusted beef tenderloin

Total time: 1 hour, 45 minutes

Servings: 8 to 10

Note: From executive chef Terry Sheehan at the Ahwahnee hotel in Yosemite National Park.

3 1/2 to 4 pound beef tenderloin

Salt and coarse black pepper to taste

1 cup toasted unsalted pistachios, ground

1/4 cup clarified butter

1. Season the tenderloin generously with salt and pepper.

2. Roll the tenderloin in the pistachios, coating it completely in nuts. Wrap it tightly in plastic and let it rest in the refrigerator for 30 minutes. Remove the tenderloin from the refrigerator and bring to room temperature (allow about 30 minutes) before roasting. Heat the oven to 400 degrees.

3. In a roasting pan that can be used on the stove top, or in a large oven-safe skillet, heat the clarified butter and pan-sear the tenderloin, browning all sides evenly.

4. Roast until the meat’s internal temperature is 130 degrees, about 35 minutes. Remove the roast from the oven, loosely cover with foil and let it rest for at least 15 minutes before slicing. The temperature will rise to about 140 degrees, for rare.

5. Serve with bearnaise demi-glace.

Each of 10 servings: 436 calories; 40 grams protein; 4 grams carbohydrates; 1 gram fiber; 29 grams fat; 11 grams saturated fat; 130 mg. cholesterol; 85 mg. sodium.

*

Bearnaise demi-glace

Total time: 30 minutes

Servings: 8 to 10 (makes 1 1/2 cups)

Note: From executive chef Terry Sheehan at the Ahwahnee hotel. Make this sauce just before you serve it.

2 1/4 teaspoons chopped shallots

5 black peppercorns, cracked

2 1/4 teaspoons dried tarragon

3 tablespoons tarragon vinegar

1 1/2 teaspoons white wine

1 tablespoon water

2 egg yolks

1 cup clarified butter, warm

2 1/4 teaspoons chopped fresh tarragon

3/4 teaspoon chopped fresh chervil

1 cup demi-glace, warm in a saucepan

1. Combine the shallots, peppercorns, dried tarragon and vinegar. Reduce until almost all the liquid is gone, about 3 to 5 minutes.

2. Add the wine and water to the reduction; strain.

3. Combine the strained reduction and the egg yolks in a stainless steel bowl. Whisk the mixture in the bowl placed over a pan of hot water until the yolks are warm. To prevent overcooking, keep the bowl from touching the hot water.

4. Drizzle the clarified butter in a thin stream into the yolk mixture, whipping constantly. Add the chopped tarragon and chervil to complete the bearnaise.

5. Whisk the bearnaise into the demi-glace. Adjust the seasoning. Serve immediately.

Each tablespoon: 90 calories; 1 gram protein; 1 gram carbohydrate; 0 fiber; 9 grams fat; 6 grams saturated fat; 41 mg. cholesterol; 67 mg. sodium.

*

Plum pudding with Ahwahnee apricot sauce

Total time: 1 hour, 10 minutes

Servings: 12

Note: From executive chef Terry Sheehan at the Ahwahnee hotel.

Ahwahnee apricot sauce

2 (15.25-ounce) cans peeled apricots in heavy syrup

3/4 cup brandy

3/4cup apricot jam

2 cinnamon sticks

1 vanilla bean, split in half

3 cloves

1( 1/4-inch) slice of fresh ginger

1. Place the apricots and syrup in a blender and blend until smooth.

2. Combine the apricot puree, brandy, apricot jam, cinnamon sticks, vanilla bean, cloves and ginger in a medium saucepan over medium heat and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer until the mixture thickens and the color darkens slightly, about 15 minutes.

3. Strain out the spices and cool.

Pudding

1/2 cup butter, softened

3/4 cup sugar

5 eggs

1/2 cup currants

1/2 cup golden raisins

1/2 cup dried apricots, diced

1/2cup dried cherries

1/2cup pecans, chopped

1 tablespoon orange zest

1 tablespoon flour

3 cups ( 1/2-inch) bread cubes made from a top-quality white loaf

2 teaspoons cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon allspice

1/2 teaspoon cloves

1. Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Cream together the butter and sugar. Beat in the eggs one at a time until they are fully incorporated.

2. In a separate bowl, toss the currants, raisins, dried apricots, dried cherries, pecans and orange zest with the flour, then fold them into the butter mixture. Fold in the bread cubes and spices.

3. Spoon the batter into a 7-by-10-inch glass baking pan and place the pan in a larger baking pan. Pour hot water halfway up the side of the pudding pan. Bake until set, about 40 minutes. Serve with Ahwahnee apricot sauce.

Each serving: 421 calories; 6 grams protein; 65 grams carbohydrates; 4 grams fiber; 14 grams fat; 6 grams saturated fat; 109 mg. cholesterol; 88 mg. sodium.