Felicity in Los Feliz

We got there just in time to secure the last table under the shade of a leafy tree. By 10 a.m. on a weekend morning, the Alcove in Los Feliz had a line out the door.

A biker who’d probably already ridden miles in the hills studied the menu set out on a preacher’s podium, while a little girl in lavender ballet shoes clambered onto the railing, pulled back at the last minute by her harried mom. Like me, most of the diners looked as if they’d stumbled out of bed into their clothes still half asleep and headed to this soulful cafe for coffee -- and breakfast. (The coffee is strong and good.)

With its bungalow setting and old French garden tables set out under the trees, the Alcove only looks laid back. This place is together. Sidle up to the counter and order whatever. They’ll give you a number to take back to your table. You set your own table, picking up silverware and napkins from a wrought iron bakery rack on the porch. Minutes later the food arrives. That’s fast.

Inside, the look is more city, with woven bistro chairs, Craftsman-style lamps and hardwood floors. A pastry case is stuffed with tall, thickly frosted cakes and all manner of sweet goodies. But there’s also a sign for Elixir tonics and teas.

For real sleepyheads, the good thing is that breakfast at the Alcove is served until 2:30 p.m., so you can hit the snooze button as many times as you like and still not miss your breakfast quesadilla or the thrill of designing your own omelet with any three ingredients. A few, such as prosciutto or smoked salmon, add a buck or two to the price, but hey, for the first meal of the day, it’s a small indulgence.

Huevos rancheros are made with black beans on a couple of crispy tortillas with the usual fried eggs, fresh salsa and slivers of avocado. The dollop of sour cream is generous, and you get some terrific oven-roasted rosemary potatoes with it too. For something more sophisticated, try the potato pancake topped with smoked salmon and poached eggs with creme fraiche and fresh dill. Or a bagel and the same smoked salmon with cream cheese and all the fixings.

Bring the paper and your shades, because you’ll be here a while. Just don’t forget to feed the meter, sleepyhead.

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Breakfast at the Alcove

Where: 1929 Hillhurst Ave.,

Los Angeles

When: Breakfast 6 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Mondays-Saturdays, 7 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Sundays. Street parking.

Cost: Egg dishes, $7.95 to $9.95; buttermilk pancakes, $7.95; granola or fruit and yogurt, $6.95; bread and bagels, $2 to $2.50; salads, $6.95 to $9.95.

Info: (323) 644-0100; fax (323) 644-0111