In praise of meat
Nick & Stef’s
This Joachim Splichal entry is modern and sophisticated, grown-up but not stodgy. There’s even a glass-enclosed aging room on the premises where huge pieces of beef prepare for their debut. The menu features all the usual suspects: filet, rib-eye, porterhouse. But this is also one of the few spots in town that does prime rib.
* Starters, $8 to $14; main courses, $19 to $48; 330 S. Hope St., downtown L.A.; (213) 680-0330.
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Ruth’s Chris
These handsome steakhouses give chains a good name. They also subscribe to the theory that everything is better in butter, a position we heartily endorse. The thick steaks arrive at the table audibly sizzling in molten butter. If that’s not decadent enough, there’s warm bread pudding to finish.
* Steaks, $27.95 to $39.95; desserts, $8.95; 224 S. Beverly Drive, Beverly Hills. (310) 859-8744.
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Lincoln Steakhouse Americana
Dark, noisy and oh so hip, this is one of the new breed of L.A. steakhouses. Southerner Jack Melson recently took the helm
in the kitchen, thus the addition
of dishes such as red rice
pilau, but you can still get traditional steakhouse fare, including shrimp cocktail and creamed spinach.
* Appetizers, $8 to $15; steaks, $30 to $42; 2460 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica. (310) 828-3304.
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Fleming’s
This O.C. steak place does an admirable job with the classics such as iceberg wedge topped with crumbled blue cheese, and shoestring potatoes. And they use only prime beef. But it’s their extensive and user-friendly wine by the glass program that distinguishes them from the pack.
* Salads, $6.95 to $19.95; steaks, $25.95 to $35.95; 455 Newport Center Drive, Newport Beach. (949) 720-9633.
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Taylor’s
Reasonable prices, consistently good food and a no-attitude old-school vibe have earned this 52-year-old Koreatown den a loyal following. Start with plump prawns served with drawn butter, or maybe the Molly salad. But keep in mind that all the steak dinners come with soup or salad and potato or rice.
* Starters, $4.50 to $11.95; steaks, $15.95 to $26.95; 3361 W. 8th St., L.A. (213) 382-8449.
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-- Leslee Komaiko