Decked out in high-end hectic

Pulling up in the valet line at the Regent Beverly Wilshire hotel always seems a bit surreal. A Bentley idles in front of us long enough to disgorge two women in silvery evening dresses and their tuxedoed escorts, and there’s no mistaking this as anything other than a Beverly Hills moment. Inching toward the entrance of the posh hotel at the foot of Rodeo Drive, I’m thinking I should have washed my car -- no, make that detailed my car. Or, at the very least, put on something more soigne before stepping out into the night.

Going inside, we pass the doors to what was once the main dining room, where I remember seeing O.J. defense lawyers breakfasting at the height of the trial of the century.

Right now I’m more interested in the newly revamped lobby lounge. It used to be a rather sedate haven, somewhere to savor a pot of tea or a dainty sandwich after a spot of shopping on Rodeo Drive.

Now, as we approach the elegant lobby and its massive centerpiece of pink hydrangeas and tea lights floating in water, the beat from the sound system leaks out from the newly christened THEBlvd. Catchy, eh?

At the entrance to the lounge, a woman wearing a leather jacket with a fabulous skirt that cups her bottom and then spills out in a cascade of multicolored ruffles, waits for a seat at the onyx bar. The place is crawling with hotel guests and others in fantastic getups, labels dripping. It’s a whole new crowd. And a whole new look for the venerable hotel’s lounge.

It seems to be working. It’s more crowded than it’s been in years.

They’ve sexed up the place with a cocktail list as long as your arm and added a wall of wines. The signature drink, a baccaratini, is served in a cobalt blue Baccarat Crystal Vegas martini glass. However, I wouldn’t jump to order it, not unless you’re on a real spending spree -- the baccaratini will set you back some $185. But you get to take the martini glass home.

Make that two.

The young chef de cuisine, Scott Thomas Dolbee, has made a valiant effort to come up with a menu that’s updated and fun. Thin-crust pizzas are square. The one with roasted peppers, Basque sausage, spicy tomatoes and fromage blanc is nicely balanced, ideal to share as an appetizer.

His French onion soup with an oxtail broth is flavorful and comforting. Seared rare ahi tuna “minute steak” in a smoked tomato vinaigrette is a fresh idea too.

Main courses each have their twist, as well. The chef serves grilled lamb rib-eye with juicy navy beans and the lamb juices fired up with North African harissa sauce. There’s a lemon and herb rotisserie chicken, a fine veal Milanese and some interesting fish dishes too. It’s all pretty decent.

But the service needs some work. Though the water menu listing eight sparkling and eight still choices from around the world was already on the table, we couldn’t get a wine list for minutes and minutes, and had a hard time flagging someone down to order a bottle of wine. Maybe it was busier that night than they anticipated, but at the very least you have to get people menus right away.

We had a perfectly fine time, though, like most hotel restaurants, prices are awfully high for what you get. If the main courses at this more casual venue run to $39, I wonder how high they’ll be at Wolfgang Puck’s Richard Meier-designed steakhouse slated to open in the hotel by the end of the year.

Start saving now.

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THEBlvd.

Where: Regent Beverly Wilshire Hotel, 9500 Wilshire Blvd., Beverly Hills

When: Open from 6:30 a.m. to 11 p.m. daily. Valet parking.

Cost: Dinner appetizers, $13 to $21; pizza, $21 to $23; pastas, $19 to $28; main courses, $26 to $39.

Info: (310) 275-5200. www.fourseasons.com