Luxe French

Four Oaks

Set in the canyon between the 310 and 818 area codes, this quaint former residence is the perfect meeting spot for city slickers and San Fernando Valley-ites. We like the small dining room with the fireplace and the wood beams overhead. Add a bowl of brandy- flamed lobster bisque, maybe some tender garlicky Burgundy snails -- happiness.

* Starters $13.50 to $24; entrees $30 to $38. 2181 N. Beverly Glen Blvd., Bel-Air; (310) 470-2265.

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L’Orangerie

Arguably L.A.’s most formal dining room, this looker is done up in a soothing palette of whites and creams. The new top toque, Christophe Bellanca, continues the tradition with L’Orangerie classics like soft scrambled eggs in the shell topped with osetra caviar. But he’s also showing his creativity with dishes such as pan-roasted squab with dried fruit and mixed mushroom fricassee.

* Appetizers $18 to $110; entrees $37 to $59. 903 N. La Cienega Blvd., L.A.; (310) 652-9770.

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Chez Mimi

Chef-owner Micheline “Mimi” Hebert’s Brentwood restaurant oozes charm. And on a sunny day, there are few nicer places to unwind than on one of the two pretty patios. Bistro classics such as escargots, bouillabaisse and cassoulet star. For dessert, splurge on the excellent tarte tatin.

* Hors d’oeuvres $4.50 to $16.50; entrees $15 to $24.50. 246 26th St., Santa Monica; (310) 393-0558.

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La Cachette

Going on its 11th year, chef-owner Jean Francois Meteigner’s Westside boite remains one of the prettier dining rooms. His cooking is assured and surprisingly light, and he even does several vegan dishes. But you can also get sauteed sweetbreads or filet of beef with roasted garlic juice. Sunday evenings, corkage is free.

* Appetizers $7 to $23; entrees $26 to $35. 10506 Santa Monica Blvd., Century City; (310) 470-4992.

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Melisse

Chef Josiah Citrin uses the season’s best ingredients to great effect. Consider his mushroom-

chestnut soup, or seared venison loin with braised red cabbage. Soon, Citrin’s menu will turn to spring, and two of his favorite ingredients: white asparagus and morel mushrooms.

* First courses $13 to $140; entrees $32 to $42. 1104 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica; (310) 395-0881.

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-- Leslee Komaiko