The vitello of her dreams

Dear SOS: The Friday night special roasted veal at Angelini Osteria is so wonderful that it sells out quite early. I don’t know how complicated it is to make, but whatever it takes, I’m ready.

SUSAN MAIERS

Redondo Beach

Dear Susan: It’s not complicated at all -- quite easy, in fact. And we agree with you: This is one of the most amazing dishes in town. Chef Gino Angelini, who is from Emilia Romagna, says it’s a typical dish from the Veneto in northeastern Italy. He has changed it slightly by adding tomato. “I love the meat. I love the taste,” he says.

At Angelini Osteria he serves the veal with mashed potatoes and sauteed rapini. In winter, polenta would be a good match or Angelini suggests an accompaniment of sauteed mushrooms, carrots, potatoes and cipollini.The shanks are expensive (about $14 per pound), but this is good enough for a dinner party or holiday meal.

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Roasted veal shank (stinko di vitello al forno)

Total time: 20 minutes plus 2 1/2 hours roasting and resting time.

Servings: 6

2 veal shanks (3 pounds each)

2 teaspoons salt

1/4 teaspoon pepper

2 garlic cloves, chopped

2 rosemary sprigs, chopped

2 onions, each cut into 8 pieces

2 carrots, cut into large pieces

2 celery stalks, cut into large pieces

7 whole peeled canned tomatoes (from one 28-ounce can)

6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

3/4 cup white wine

1 cup vegetable stock

1. Heat the oven to 400 degrees. Remove the silver skin covering the veal shanks. Season the meat with salt and pepper and sprinkle with the garlic and rosemary.

2. Place the onions, carrots and celery in a medium baking pan. Put the veal shanks on top of the vegetables. Carefully squeeze the juice out of each tomato over the shanks, then place the crushed pieces on top. Sprinkle the olive oil over all.

3. Roast for 30 minutes. Reduce the heat to 350 degrees and rotate the pan for even cooking. Cook for 10 minutes more, then pour the white wine on top of the vegetables. Continue roasting 1 hour and 20 minutes (for a total cooking time of 2 hours), basting the meat and vegetables occasionally. If they seem too dry, reduce the heat or add a little of the vegetable stock so that the veal and vegetables remain moist.

4. When the veal is done, remove it from the baking pan, wrap it in foil and keep warm. Allow the meat to rest 30 minutes before carving and serving.

5. Meanwhile, put the baking pan with the vegetables on the stove. Add the vegetable stock and boil gently for 8 to 10 minutes until sauce thickens slightly. Strain the sauce and serve with the veal.

Each serving: 505 calories; 59 grams protein; 12 grams carbohydrates; 2 grams fiber; 21 grams fat; 4 grams saturated fat; 223 mg. cholesterol; 1,654 mg. sodium.