Side show

Dal Rae

So retro it’s cool, this sprawling Continental eatery does several dishes tableside. On the savory side, there’s steak Diane: filet mignon cooked with all sorts of good stuff -- butter, garlic, mushrooms, Dijon mustard -- and flamed with brandy. On the sweet side, there are bananas flambe and cherries jubilee. Both are high drama and delicious.

* Steak, $60; bananas, $15; cherries, $15 (all are for two). 9023 E. Washington Blvd., Pico Rivera, (562) 949-2444.

La Dolce Vita

Among the many delicious dishes done tableside at this old-school Italian, which turns 40 this year, is decadent fettuccine Alfredo made with fresh, homemade egg noodles. You can also watch your dessert being made. Maitre d’ Ruben Castro whips up a lovely zabaglione with egg yolks, sugar and Marsala wine.

* Fettuccine, $20; zabaglione, $10 for two. 9785 Little Santa Monica Blvd., Beverly Hills, (310) 278-1845.

Tequila Jack’s

Just about everyone orders the chunky guacamole, made before your eyes with cilantro, jalapeno, garlic, salt, pepper, onion and lime juice. Add some freshly made corn tortilla chips, a bit thicker than usual for maximum guac transport, and a view of the harbor, and it’s little wonder TJ’s often feels like a party.

* Guacamole, $7.95. 407 Shoreline Village Drive, Long Beach, (562) 628-0454.

Nick & Stef’s

Joachim Splichal’s stylish eatery, named for his two sons, might be best known for steaks. But one could easily make a meal of some of the delicious starters and sides, including a Caesar salad with a bit of zing courtesy of Tabasco. It’s prepared in a big wood bowl for your viewing pleasure.

* Caesar, $8. 330 S. Hope St., downtown L.A., (213) 680-0330.

Fogo de Chao

Though they don’t do any cooking at your table, having hot, juicy meat sliced onto your plate by a waiter in full gaucho attire is pretty good, at least for carnivores. Don’t miss the garlicky picanha, one of nearly a dozen tasty beef, lamb and pork offerings this upscale Brazilian churrascaria serves. Want more? Just flip over your little “coaster” from red to green.

* All-you-can-eat dinner, $52.50 per person (includes salad bar). 133 N. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills, (310) 289-7755.

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-- Leslee Komaiko