Doughnut daze

Doughnuts are forever, but these places put a different twist on the subject.

Rockenwagner Bakery

Hans Rockenwagner opened this smart little bakery this spring, but only recently did he add German Berliners, the ultimate jelly doughnut, to the menu. You can get these golden, sugar-dusted, raspberry jam-filled babies on Fridays only. Just be sure to come early; they consistently sell out.

* Berliner, $2. 12835 Washington Blvd., Mar Vista, (310) 578-8171.

Donut Man

Among the celebrity fans of this modest 34-year-old shop was Elvis, who used to send his bodyguard to purchase jelly doughnuts. But our favorite is the tiger tail, a classic twist ribboned with chocolate. In honor of the season, owner Jim Nakano and company are also doing a pumpkin and cream cheese number. Come February, look for strawberry doughnuts loaded with berries.

* Tiger tail, $1.10. 915 E. Route 66, Glendora, (626) 335-9111.

Grace

On Wednesday nights only, pastry chef Robert Tarlow whips up a variety of doughnuts you can mix and match. The menu changes each week, but among the goodies you might find are a creme brulee-

filled doughnut with a crispy, caramelized sugar exterior and a blackberry white-chocolate glazed made with real blackberries. They are fried to order, so they arrive at the table hot, with that sweet, yeasty scent. Did we mention the side of homemade ice cream?

* Three-doughnut combo, $11. 7360 Beverly Blvd., L.A., (323) 934-4400.

Stan’s

Many UCLA students have been sustained on the apple fritters, blueberry buttermilk doughnuts and maple bars from Stan Berman’s circa-1963 business. But it’s hard to beat the Reese’s Peanut Butter Pockets, massive chocolate-covered things filled with peanut butter. Late-night craving? Show up after 10 p.m., and $3.50 gets you a big bag filled with your choice of doughnuts.

* Reese’s doughnut, $2. 10948 Weyburn Ave., Westwood, (310) 208-8660.

Gumbo Pot

You can buy boxed beignet mix from Cafe du Monde, the legendary N’awlins eatery, at this modest stand on the west patio at the Farmers Market. But the chefs at Gumbo Pot make their own mix. The result is lovely little golden pillows served four to an order straight out of the deep fryer with a dusting of powdered sugar. The stand brews chicory coffee too.

* Beignet, $2.50. 6333 W. 3rd St., L.A., (323) 933-0358.