2005 Le Cellier du Palais Apremont Vin de Savoie

The Savoie region of France doesn’t usually merit its own section in a wine shop, but here’s one bottle worth setting right up front. Le Cellier du Palais’ 2005 Apremont is everything you want in a food-friendly wine. The crisp, briny white has character and finesse, a firm minerality and the taste of green apples. Made from 100% Jacquere grown on the slopes above Apremont (which translates as bitter mountain), it’s perfect with oysters or clams on the half shell, a fully decked-out shellfish platter or sushi and sashimi (think yellowtail and jumbo clam).

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Quick swirl

Region: Savoie, France

Price: About $11

Style: Crisp and minerally

Food it goes with: Oysters, clams, chilled seafood platter, sushi, soups.

Where you find it: Du Vin Wine & Spirits in West Hollywood, (310) 855-1161; Mission Wines in South Pasadena, (626) 403-9463; Wine Exchange in Orange, (714) 974-1454 and (800) 769-4639; the Wine House in West Los Angeles, (310) 479-3731; and Woodland Hills Wine Company in Woodland Hills, (818) 222-1111

-- S. Irene Virbila