Fleeting first tastes of spring

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Page mandarins: It used to be that we called them tangerines and they were a Christmas treat. Today we know better. There is a wide variety of these small, easy-to-peel citrus fruits and the season extends well into spring. In fact, with no offense to the satsumas and clementines we’ve been enjoying so far, now is when mandarins really start to get interesting. A perfect example is the Page. A cross between a clementine and a tangelo, the Page is a little more difficult to peel than the satsuma or clementine, and if it’s not grown in isolation, it will have seeds. But it also has a deep, fruity flavor -- it is one of the best mandarins for juicing. The first Pages of the year, from northern San Diego County, have been trickling into the markets the last couple of weeks. In the coming weeks, also keep your eyes peeled for Lees, Dancys and, of course, the fabulous Pixies from the Ojai Valley.

Garcia Farms, $3 per pound.

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Jumbo asparagus: Asparagus, once a reliable harbinger of spring, is pretty much a year-round presence at Southern California farmers markets these days, thanks to a peculiarly mild microclimate outside of Lompoc. But we still only get fat, juicy jumbo asparagus for a brief period in the spring. The best come from Zuckerman Farms, asparagus growers in the Sacramento delta for generations. Jumbo asparagus, as big around as a nickel and sometimes even almost as big as a quarter, can come from the same root bunch as the pencil-thin asparagus. The diameter is a reflection of the health, or vigor, of the plant. And although asparagus will bear all year round, it’s only in the early spring when the spears start shooting up, fattened by a winter’s worth of saved energy. Fat spears do need to be peeled, although thin spears do not. But because there is so much meat to them, it’s worth the extra chore. And it’s also worth it to serve them whole so that you can enjoy their rich flavor and succulent texture. Cook them thoroughly -- either steaming or boiling -- but don’t overcook them. They’re done when the color is still bright green but the tip sags when you pick a spear up by its base.

Zuckerman Farms, $4 a bunch.

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Peak season

Lettuces: This cool weather is perfect for bringing out the best in salad greens. Of particular note are two interesting varieties, the Little Gem and the Forellenschluss. The Little Gem is a cross between a butterhead lettuce and a romaine. It has broad leaves that are tender on the outer edges but crisp at the heart; the flavor has a complex minerality. This is the salad green of choice for restaurants these days, so only when it is producing in abundance is there enough left over for us civilians. The Forellenschluss is an Austrian heirloom. It’s from the romaine family but has lovely red speckles (perhaps the origin of the name, which refers to the speckled back and tail of a trout). The flavor is much like regular romaine, but more so.

Coleman Family Farms, $1.50 per head.

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russ.parsons@latimes.com