The charm of Thai fusion at Naraya

LIGHT from the tabletop votives flickers in the large framed mirrors on the tiny cafe’s gray walls as Patrick Suwan, chef and co-owner of Naraya, who also works the front of the house, sets our appetizers before us. There’s not a seen-this-one-before dish in the bunch.

Asian tamales, little boats of corn husk tied off at each end and filled with shrimp on a pillow of lemongrass-infused masa, are light and wonderfully savory, sweet shrimp set off by the slightly herbaceous cornmeal.

A dim-sum-style appetizer called Naraya crowns turns out to be outstanding mini raviolis filled with a rich, crunchy combination of caramelized radish, sweet onions and diced nuts presented with a delicate, colorful slaw of carrots and red cabbage.

The Vietnamese hand roll is a single small, delicate cone of seaweed-wrapped herbs, sprouts and noodles presented in a glass as if it were a flower in a vase. Salmon crab cakes are unusual too, and satisfying. More like seafood-stuffed egg rolls, they’re a flavorful combo of salmon, crab and cucumber wrapped and fried and served with sweet honey-sake dipping sauce.

Aims to please

EIGHT-month-old Naraya Thai in the Olympic-Robertson neighborhood of West L.A. is ambitious in a sweet-natured way, working hard to please customers and encourage return visits while also trying to get across enough of a sense of occasion to justify its prices, which are higher than the average neighborhood joint.

You don’t have to be dressed up to feel welcome, but the small narrow storefront space is itself well turned out, with a dark slate tile floor, cloth-covered tables and handsome dishes.

The menu is contemporary Thai fusion, with pleasantly eccentric touches, especially in presentation. But although you may not be able to visualize a dish by reading its menu description, after a few visits you’ll get a sense of a guiding aesthetic that seeks to both surprise and please. For every unique creation on the list, there’s a variation on popular favorites.

The food is not aggressively spiced (request a dish of chopped chiles on the side if that’s your thing), and the salads tend to be less than successful, but overall the execution is very good. Dishes, which are plated individually as opposed to being offered for family-style dining, are flavorful and fun, presented with an endearing flair and attention to detail.

Thai cafe standards such as satays, pad Thai and curries are somewhat perfunctory here, dutifully presented -- peanut sauce that’s not too sweet, noodles with good texture, flavors of curries layered and individuated -- with the sometimes exuberant touches of the specialties and entrees.

A generous selection of vegetarian dishes includes stir-fries, a vegetable curry, tofu steak and noodles and could also, with the green-tea rice perhaps, be the basis for a family-style dinner.

But Naraya’s personality shines through with dishes such as the Bangkok catfish fillet, juicy slices of sauteed, confidently spiced fish presented on a chiffonade of ginger, onions and shiitake mushrooms, drizzled with sweet-hot chili sauce.

Ka pow rib-eye steak (an uncommon variation of the frequently seen chicken or pork ka pow) is likewise a happily brazen dish: a tender steak tasting of a bright chile-garlic marinade, served with a thatch of braised onion, red pepper and crisp-fried basil that complements every bite of meat.

Service is assiduous and personal, with Suwan and co-owner Sumaytee Kasemchit working the room, recognizing repeat customers, offering special touches, making suggestions and lavishing attention in a way the regular guy or gal diner seldom experiences these days -- and could get used to.

susan.latempa@latimes .com

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Naraya

Location: 1128 S. Robertson Blvd., Los Angeles, (310) 858-7738.

Price: Lunch specials (include rice, salad, egg roll), $9 to $13; dinner appetizers, $4 to $10; specialties and entrees, $10 to $22.

Best dishes: Naraya crowns, Asian tamales, Bangkok catfish fillet, ka pow rib-eye steak.

Details: Open for lunch and dinner from 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday through Thursday, until 10:30 p.m. Friday; 12:30 to 10:30 p.m. Saturday; 12:30 to 10 p.m. Sunday. Metered street parking and lot parking in the back. Wine cocktails. Visa, Mastercard, American Express.