THE GLUTTON

“Wow. So much death in such a small space.”

This was the stunned reaction of the Glutton’s lone vegan colleague upon glimpsing the sausage, ham and pepperoni-laden miniature football field that passes for a large pizza at Petrillo’s. The vegan probably meant it as an insult, but the Glutton took it as a compliment. A good rule of thumb: If it doesn’t disgust your vegan friends, it’s not worth eating.

Few destinations could make a lunchtime trek to and from San Gabriel seem bearable. Petrillo’s makes it a privilege. Returning with a sacred monstrosity so heavy with meat and cheese that the cardboard container started sagging, the Glutton could think of no better way to prepare for her favorite holiday, National Pizza With the Works Except Anchovies Day (Monday).

But instead of sating her hunger, Petrillo’s kicked off a three-day binge -- a lurching, gut-busting pizza crawl through the city’s kitchens. Happily, the Glutton can report that L.A. is awash in quality pizza. Pizza Buona -- an unremarkable-looking joint in the middle of gentrified Echo Park -- offers a different take on pizza, tucking a layer of meat and vegetables underneath a dense blanket of cheese. The Glutton was also thrilled to discover burgeoning pizza delivery chain Crispy Crust. See, national pizza chains? You don’t need to invent new pies every other week. You just have to do one thing and do it well.

-- theguide@latimes.com