THE ENABLER
Lola’s in West Hollywood makes the astounding claim that it invented the apple martini. The Enabler’s only attempt at inventing a drink was a never-repeated blend of bourbon and orange juice (the “Dirty South Breakfast,” which seemed like a good idea at the time), and we’re skeptical of anyone who thinks they came up with something new to do with liquor.
Yet after sampling some of Lola’s 50 other martinis, the Enabler is more convinced. Some, like the Still Hoping (vodka and tomato juice with pickled baby tomatoes) are spectacular, and some (like the Sweet Pickle-tini made cloudy with sweet pickle juice) are just plain wrong, but all testify to Lola’s commitment to expand the possibilities of gin and vodka.
The sight of martinis on every possible surface and in every brilliant color holds a sodden Modernist beauty. One can’t help but imagine Dorothy Parker pounding four “Meet Me in Manhattans” before ending up under her host in a Fairfax duplex. But non-libertines will find plenty of less-potent elixirs (like Strawberry Fields, with fruit puree and various juices) and unexpectedly delicious pastas and salads to sop it up.
Lola’s will leave you more stirred than shaken, but give them points for originality.
945 N. Fairfax Ave., West Hollywood, (213) 736-5652.
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