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2004 Giuseppe Mascarello Barbera d’Alba Santo Stefano di Perno

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Fall is coming on, finally, so it’s time to move on from the roses and lightweights to something lush and autumnal. In my book, that would include a Barbera, preferably this impressive one from one of Barolo’s oldest and most distinguished estates, Giuseppe Mascarello. Just look at the color in the glass -- a juicy red-violet -- and take in the scent of blackberries and dusky foliage. The bright snap of acidity makes this 2004 Barbera a natural with salumi, panini, grilled sausages and such classic fall dishes as pasta e fagioli, tagliarini with meat sauce, or a roast bird.

--S. Irene Virbila

Quick swirl

Region: Piedmont

Price: About $21

Style: Bright and lush

Food it goes with: Salumi and charcuterie, grilled sausages, pasta with meat sauce

Where you find it: Beverage Warehouse in Marina del Rey, (310) 306-2822; Mission Wines in South Pasadena, (626) 403-9463, www.missionwines.com; and Wine Exchange in Orange, (714) 974-1454 and (800) 76WINEX, www.winex.com.

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