Evolution runs wild

The synonym for paradise is Galápagos. The definition is an archipelago of 15 islands and dozens of islets in the Pacific, straddling the Equator and belonging to Ecuador, 600 miles east. Never mind the 19th century visit of Charles Darwin and how he began formulating his theory of evolution here. Anyone who comes here will tell you that what really put this place on the map are the sheer wonders that occur when nature is allowed to thrive unspoiled.

But lately, there have been signs of trouble in paradise. Ecuador is considering restricting not only tourist permits and flights to the islands but also residency permits. UNESCO selected Galápagos as its first world heritage site in 1978 but in August declared the islands “in danger” because of increased development and tourism.

But Ecuadoreans have a saying: “If it’s not a problem today, it’s not a problem yet.” And, today, the iguanas are happily basking in the sun. In the middle of these wonders, trouble is easy to overlook.

SAN CRISTÓBAL

The view from an airplane on approach to the island of San Cristóbal, home of the smaller of the Galápagos’ two airports, is not especially overwhelming. We look in vain for the lush greenery or swaying palm trees that one would expect in a tropical archipelago. The disappointment mounts when the plane lands; it’s insufferably hot, and the inland terrain is dusty and brown.

But then our naturalists, Robert and Fabio, appear and describe the seven-night, eight-day sail that will take our group of 15 to nine islands.

Once we leave San Cristóbal, we will see few islands with full-time human inhabitants. Before leaving, we have our first up-close encounter with sea lions that have no fear of mankind -- yet. Snorkeling in the bay at Lobos Island is awesome, and we worry about this apparent strategy of strutting out the best act first.

FERNANDINA

On Fernandina, the youngest of the Galápagos, our naturalists gather us around a large pool on the craggy lava shore to observe a sea lion. In a flash, it snatches a tuna from the water and clenches the unfortunate creature in its jaws. The sea lion repeatedly flails it against the rocks, ripping it apart and devouring chunks of flesh.

We think it’s over, but then three small, white-tipped sharks enter the tidal pool, by now a bloody red. They circle and circle, looking for a piece of the action. The sea lion, gone now, has left only scraps of the fish for its visitors to nosh on. The sharks move in to claim their share, followed by the frigate birds that had been keeping close watch, then the marine iguanas and, finally, the crabs.

Earlier that morning, we had been told we’d likely spot marine iguanas swimming in the waters offshore. Darwin’s evolutionary theory is based on his study of Galápagos finches, but it may just as well have been based on this remarkable creature, the only existing sea lizard.

It’s theorized that a long drought on these islands forced the land iguana to the water to find food. Thousands of years later, this adaptation has made the marine iguana look and act different from the land reptile that occupies most of these islands.

When our panga makes its landing, the sun is quickly warming up the black lava surface. Debarking is disconcerting; it seems as though the rocks up ahead are sliding out to sea. Suddenly, we stop; otherwise, we would step on a marine iguana. Hundreds of them are waking up, warming up and moving out, slithering past us to the waiting ocean.

GENOVESA

Although its nickname is Hitchcock Island as a nod to the movie “The Birds,” Genovesa seems more like the Island of Love. This is where courtship is constant and babies are turned out with production-line speed.

The wooing and mating of frigate birds are especially mesmerizing. The females fly overhead as the excited male birds -- their red chest sacks inflated -- sing their love song, hoping to woo that special lady.

Steps away, the blue-footed boobies do their flirtation dance, employing some fancy footwork. This is also the only place you can be assured to spot the red-footed booby -- and we’re lucky enough to see the hard-to-spot Galápagos owl as well.

Later, we climb Prince Philip’s Steps, a steep path up the back side of cliffs. The view below and the birds you encounter on the way up are worth every step.

ISABELA

Several of our days begin with heavy fog that lifts just as we are enjoying our second cups of coffee. On this day, it’s the same, with the (human) early birds taking their positions on the deck of the Lammer Law, our 93-foot trimaran, kibitzing about the snorkeling adventure ahead.

Once again, on cue, the crew lowers the anchor just as the curtain of fog begins to rise, and we are in an intimate, crystal-clear bay with dramatically high cliffs, dotted with boobies, cormorants and iguanas. In the water, we can already spot the sea booty: sunfish, manta rays, turtles and sea lions aplenty.

We don wetsuits and plunge in. The first thing we see is the fin of a sunfish. (They have two.) But the thrill in Isabela is the large sea turtle that paddles only a few feet away as we explore the bay. There are other turtles, of course, and baby sea lions swimming alongside us, as well as brightly colored fish, eels and other creatures of the sea that only our naturalists can identify.

When we snorkel at a different location near Isabela, we see Galápagos penguins, not a bird you expect to see at the Equator. We also watch as a flightless cormorant, yet another species found only in the Galápagos, plucks an octopus from the water, twirls it around until it is positioned just right and takes a big gulp.

SANTA CRUZ

Although Isabela is the choice location to view sea turtles, there is no better place to see land tortoises than Santa Cruz Island. The tortoises are the Galápagos’ namesake, and nowhere else in the world will you see them this big in their natural habitat.

Santa Cruz is also where most full-time residents of the Galápagos live. And tourists inevitably wind up here too, thanks to the draw of the many shops, the work of the Charles Darwin Research Station and the island’s accessibility by plane and sea (many tours leave from here).

We arrive early at the island’s busy but quaint marina of Puerto Ayora and board a minibus to explore Santa Cruz’s highlands and visit a private reserve, where we can see the giant Galápagos tortoise, which can live up to 200 years.

At the research station, we check in on its most famous resident, Lonesome George. George is the last of the Abingdon Island Tortoises, a subspecies of the giant tortoise. Efforts to find him a mating partner are legendary but, to date, unsuccessful. George is difficult to spot on our visit. Using a telephoto camera lens, we get only a fleeting glimpse of him hiding in the brush.

There are other islands such as Española, Floreana, Santiago and Bartholomew -- and other eye-popping sights, including a simultaneous sunset-moonrise and a pod of orca whales that cozies up to our boat one evening.

At the end of the trip, Fabio confesses that he worries about his special paradise. The islands’ two towns are growing, and the tourists keep coming, but infrastructure issues -- such as sewage and drinking water -- raise concerns. He worries too that invasive species will take over the islands.

But what’s the saying?

Ah, yes. “If it’s not a problem today, it’s not a problem yet.”

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Planning this trip

THE BEST WAY

From LAX, American and Avianca offer direct service (stop, no change of plane) and American, Continental, Copa, Delta and Lacsa offer connecting service (change of plane) to Quito, Ecuador. Restricted round-trip fares begin at $379. From LAX to Guayaquil, Ecuador, American, Continental, Copa, Delta and Lacsa offer connecting service. Restricted round-trip fares begin at $613.

From Quito or Guayaquil, passengers have a choice among three Ecuadorean airlines for their trip to the Galápagos: Aerogal, Icaro or Tame. Round-trip fares range from $380 to $410. Tickets can be purchased through a tour operator or may be included in the price of a boat package. Tickets should be purchased at least six weeks ahead.

PACKAGE TOURS

Quasar Nautica Expeditions, (800) 247-2925, www.yachtsgalapagos.com or www.quasarex.com. The Lammer Law is a 16-passenger, 93-foot trimaran with eight cabins, each with its own bathroom and shower. Seven-day, eight-night cruises including meals and a naturalist cost $3,600 per person.

Metropolitan Touring, (877) 534-8584, www.metropolitan-touring.com. The Isabella II is a 40-passenger, 21-cabin ocean cruiser. Cost of an eight-day, seven-night cruise -- including all meals and three naturalists but no airfare -- is $3,600 per person.

On travel.latimes.com

Take a look at more wildlife and views of the Galápagos at latimes.com/galapagos.