Everything’s coming up roses at New York Fashion Week. That was the biggest trend takeaway to come out of the first full day of shows here. It’s far too early in the week to know if that particular floral motif will blossom into a full-on fall/winter 2017 seasonal trend, but it cropped up on so many runways — in so many permutations — it was impossible to overlook.
Day 1’s bouquet of roses came courtesy of Brock Collection, the 2016 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund winner, whose fall/winter 2017 runway collection included several dresses in a black-and-white blurred rose print; Ulla Johnson, whose first New York Fashion Week runway presentation included several pieces in a dusty rose color and a dress in an allover rose print; and Tadashi Shoji’s floral brocade coats, rose lace tops, black velvet and rose-embroidered floor-length gowns and rose-print chiffon flutter-sleeve V-neck gowns.
But it was Adam Selman (one of the 2016 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund runners-up) who pushed the rose motif into full bloom, filling the center of his runway with outsized vases filled with roses, around which unspooled a collection of rose-print bandana dresses, rose-embroidered denim biker jackets, shirts and dresses and even a couple of jumpsuits festooned with rose embroidery. (Did we mention that jumpsuits also seemed to be having a moment on the runway today? They were.)
But he didn’t stop there; Selman also served up long-sleeve T-shirts screenprinted with the slogan “Say it with flowers” (along with a rose, naturally), a sheer trench coat with allover rose embroidery and custom, rose-embroidered Converse sneakers. (The footwear brand was one of the show’s sponsors.)
Thursday’s rose overload overshadowed a handful of other Day 1 trends that included, in no particular order, the aforementioned jumpsuit silhouette (spotted at Ulla Johnson, Erin Fetherston and La Perla), a deep bench of velvet (particularly at Erin Fetherston and Tadashi Shoji) and an assortment of statement-making looks in shades of red that ranged from rust (Brock Collection’s ruffled taffeta off-the-shoulder tent dress) to cardinal red (Adam Selman’s billowy shirt dress).
For more musings on all things fashion and style, follow me at @ARTschorn.