L.A. Beer Week: Craftsman Brewing’s beer dinner at Maximiliano

Mark Jilg, brewmaster of Craftsman Brewing Co., and chef Andre Guerrero of the Oinkster and Highland Park’s Maximiliano share similar outlooks on beer and food, and their reteaming for a beer pairing dinner was one of L.A. Beer Week’s highly anticipated events.

The two friends first joined forces for a pairing dinner in 2011 when they took over the Oinkster’s patio with table linens and stemware for a fine dining experience at the iconic roadside A-frame eatery. Wednesday’s meal was likewise held on the relaxed back patio at Maximiliano, where the chef and the brewmaster’s mutual admiration was clear as they took turns shyly introducing the courses and telling the stories of the beers and the dishes.

Craftsman Brewing has been evolving to focus more on what Jilg calls “complicated beers” that undergo long fermentations in wood barrels to develop layers of subtle flavors as they age. “Wine-like” was used more than once as the beers were discussed by Jilg and Guerrero, and the five styles ranged from a light, tart brew too new to have a name brewed with Sauvignon Blanc and Riesling grapes, to the dark, smoky El Prieto -- a wild ale that was matched to a decadent slab of cured, smoked and braised pork belly.

Guerrero’s probably best known for his smoky, homely grub at the Oinkster, and he opened Maximiliano as an outlet to cook the food he wanted to eat -- simple Italian dishes elevated through careful preparation and great ingredients. But the chef has a long fine-dining history, and his French cuisine chops were showcased in the third course -- a classic chicken roulade stuffed with herbs and doused in a velvety -- and very French -- morel mushroom sauce. The dish was paired with what Jilg called his “finest beer in 18 years of brewing,” Ursa Minor, and the pair was the highlight of the meal.

Chef Guerrero talked about referencing the subtle change in seasons that L.A. is experiencing with the roulade, and Jilg explained that Ursa Minor was an easy drinking beer that would reward careful, slow consideration. Each was elevated by the other, and they disappeared from the glass and plate all too quickly.

The best food and beer pairings strive to reveal subtle connections between the dish and the drink, and Wednesday’s pairings went a step further and revealed connections between the chef and the brewer. The two artisans share a tireless dedication to the details of their craft and an unmistakable drive to communicate through their creations, and their passion was clearly evident on the plates, and in the glasses.

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