Mo Ran Gak is nominally a barbecue restaurant, but the thin, blushing slivers of thoroughly marbled brisket and buttery slabs of short rib are just a precursor for the true showstopper: bowls of the finest naengmyeon available anywhere.
Beef brisket ready to be cooked on the grill at Mo Ran Gak in Garden Grove’s Koreatown. (Allen J. Schaben / Los Angeles Times)