Count me lucky to have a neighbor who keeps chickens and who brings me a carton of pretty pale blue or brown eggs with stand-up gold yolks whenever she comes to dinner. There's nothing that beats fresh eggs scrambled, sunny side up or gently coddled. After tasting the difference, it can be hard to go back to the regular eggs. Some restaurants, though, are cooking eggs with the attention and care they deserve and are garnering a fan base for their egg dishes.
Migas at HomeState, A Texas Kitchen
At the breakfast and lunch spot devoted to Tex-Mex cuisine, Austin native Briana Valdez serves up eggs in breakfast tortillas and in migas — eggs sort scrambled with crispy corn tortilla strips, onions and cheddar cheese. That's the veggie version. You can also add chorizo or shredded brisket and pico de gallo. Get your eggs in a breakfast taco with shredded brisket, chorizo and cheddar, or with refried charro beans and cheddar, or with black beans and Monterey jack. I find myself sneaking in for some migas whenever I'm in the neighborhood.
4624 Hollywood Blvd., Los Feliz; (323) 906-1122, https://www.myhomestate.com. Migas, $6 to $7; breakfast tacos, $3. 7 days a week 8 a.m. to 3 p.m.
Breakfast sandwiches at EggSlut
There's no going back once you slide onto a stool and order one of Alvin Cailin's breakfast sandwiches. Just taste "the Fairfax" — bright yellow scrambled eggs with chives topped with cheddar, a tangle of caramelized onions and a squirt of sriracha mayo, all on a toasted brioche bun. The hardwood-smoked bacon, egg and cheese sandwich is a classic too. Even the burger comes with a fried egg on top, but it's so tall you'll need a mouth wide as Jim Carrey's to eat this one.
Grand Central Market, 317 Broadway, downtown Los Angeles, eggslut.com. Breakfast sandwiches and other egg dishes, $6 to $9. Open 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. daily.
Egg banh mi at East/Borough
East/Borough has just added weekend brunch to its lineup of fresh Vietnamese-inflected dishes. Chloe Tran's new morning menu includes Egg Banh Mi with scrambled eggs heaped onto a split French baguette with cilantro, cucumbers and red jalapeño. Her braised oxtail hash with fried daikon fingers comes topped with two fried eggs and garnished with sriracha hoisin aioli. And if you have a sweet tooth, add an order of pain perdu (Vietnamese French toast) in egg custard. Accented with Saigon cinnamon, it's served with sweet-tart kumquat marmalade.
East/Borough, 9810 Washington Blvd., Culver City, (310) 596-8623, https://www.east-borough.com. Egg dishes $8 to $12, weekends only, 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m.