Wine of the Week: 2009 Cantine Lunae Bosoni Colli di Luni Vermentino ‘Lunae’

As summer edges closer, crisp white wines are what’s needed. Break out the wine buckets and the galvanized pails, stick in a few bottles and it’s party time.

Paolo Bosoni at Cantine Lunae, an estate in Liguria that goes back five centuries, makes a stunning Vermentino called “Lunae.” Note: We’re talking the etichetta nera, or black label reserve, wine. The regular label, also very good, is half the price.

I wouldn’t serve this to just anybody: It needs an audience that will appreciate its lovely subtleties. Straw yellow with greenish glints, it is 100% Vermentino, made from grapes sourced from two hillside vineyards. Though the scent is wildflowers and honey, the wine is dry and fresh, with a hint of apple and almond.

It’s a perfect match for seafood, particularly grilled fish, lobster or spot prawns, squid and seafood pasta dishes.

Region: Liguria

Price: About $25

Style: Dry and aromatic

What it goes with: Grilled fish or prawns, squid, seafood pasta dishes

Where to find it: Cube Marketplace in Los Angeles, (323) 939-1148; https://www.cubemarketplace.com and Wine Exchange in Orange (714) 974-1454, https://www.winex.com.