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Wine of the Week: 2011 Giovanni Almondo Roero Arneis ‘Bricco delle Ciliegie’

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This is a stunning Arneis from Giovanni Almondo in the Roero region of Piedmont. And to think this grape was once almost extinct. It may be temperamental, but whatever pains must be taken to produce this lovely white are worth it. The 2011 wafts the scents of ripe pears, melons and flowers from the glass. It’s fleshy but lithe, cool-toned and with a vivid minerality.

I’d pour it with mozzarella and pea shoots, with summer soups and pastas, and grilled whole fish. It’s a terrific basic that doesn’t cost the Earth. And if you don’t get around to drinking it any time soon, it can wait. Almondo makes a more basic Arneis too, also very good, just lighter and less expensive.

Region: Piedmont, Italy

Price: About $18

Style: Rich and fragrant

What it goes with: Fresh mozzarella, grilled fish, summer soups and pasta dishes

Where to find it: BestWinesOnline, (888) 817-8880, https://www.bestwinesonline.com; and Wine Exchange in Orange, (714) 974-1454.

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irene.virbila@latimes.com

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