Hamburger Mary’s brought drag brunch to L.A. in 2001. Here are 13 spots to celebrate the tradition now
Dating as far back as ancient Greek theater, drag is an undeniably legendary form of entertainment that’s touched nearly every corner of the world. Major U.S. cities have been host to drag performances for more than a century — beginning with underground ballrooms in the mid-19th century and evolving into everything from bingo to dance nights. More often than not these were evening events, frequented by the LGBTQ+ community and their friends, and a rare opportunity for performers to have their talents seen and celebrated.
Despite an ongoing culture war, L.A.’s thriving drag scene is bursting with queens, kings, things and rebellious spirit.
Drag brunches flipped that model by bringing the art form to daytime audiences. In 2001, the now-nationwide Hamburger Mary’s franchise introduced the concept to Southern California.
“A group of us drag queens would go to Hamburger Mary’s Long Beach on Sundays and hang out and have bottomless mimosas,” recalled Jewels Long Beach, executive director of entertainment at Hamburger Mary’s. “Because we were there all of the time, I was like, ‘We should start a drag show at brunch.’”
Not long after, Hamburger Mary’s began hosting “SoCal’s only daytime drag show” — a tagline it was able to keep for a decade. The brand’s popular West Hollywood location opened in 2006, and though the surrounding strip of queer bars now offer similar weekend drag brunch events, for several years Hamburger Mary’s was the only neighborhood option.
Drag brunch, along with shows like “RuPaul’s Drag Race,” a 16-season-running competition series that has flourished into DragCon, an annual drag expo, has brought drag into the mainstream and solidified it as a craft to celebrate. Now fans of the show and its universe of queens show up to drag brunch hoping to catch an early-career performer or a special show from a past winner or runner-up.
“This is their art, their passion,” said Brandon Waller, general manager of Sorry Not Sorry, a beer garden and restaurant in West L.A. that hosts drag brunch. Drag “gives performers an outlet to show the world who they are. And it gives us love — a shared love between the performers, the venue and the audience. Drag is real art, and I think that people need to recognize that.”
Sitting in the crowd with strobe lights flashing and chart-topping songs blaring overhead, with every patron in the building singing along as a queen sashays across the stage in full glam, it’s impossible not to feel the love that Waller mentions. While not necessarily known for offering Michelin-starred meals, drag brunches serve up an excess of inspiration and expression that still leave one feeling full — though bacon, avocado toast and bottomless beverages certainly help that cause.
Southern California’s drag brunches have only expanded since they got their start more than two decades ago. Today, there’s a “Wicked” parody in Orange County, an al fresco brunch with modern Latin American cuisine in Long Beach and a dazzling lineup of Black performers in downtown L.A., with more popping up all of the time. Here are 13 drag brunches to make reservations for the next time you want to add a little flair to your daytime weekend plans.
A note on tipping your queens: It’s customary to tip at least $1 per song, and most drag brunches have staff on hand to break larger bills into singles. Some drag brunches have on-site ATMs, but it’s recommended to bring cash with you. — Danielle Dorsey
2023 Pride guide for flourishing in Los Angeles: Where to go and who to know in L.A.’s LGBTQ+ community
Beaches Weho
The menu here is described as Cuban Californian cuisine, which means nachos with plantains instead of tortilla chips and crispy-crackly just-fried empanadas with fillings like ham and cheese, a picadillo beef blend or Impossible picadillo. The lechon asado flatbread was sold out when I visited, but sounded it intriguing, with garlic mojo sauce, caramelized onions and a blend of white cheeses. House cocktails lean sweet and strong and, in true West Hollywood fashion, can be made keto-friendly by substituting monkfruit for agave.
Brunch Brats
Jada’s quick wit and Pam’s energy make you feel like you’re instant besties. This is key for when they bring you up for a lip-sync battle or make you settle a bingo tie in a twerk contest. Brunch runs from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m., with a DJ spinning new and old tunes to groove to between acts. Each queen will dazzle you twice.
At $25 a plate, the menu offers pretty standard brunch fare, including a breakfast burrito, chilaquiles and vegan-friendly options like almond butter toast and breakfast tacos. The house specialty is the teeth-clenchingly sweet Tipsy Delight, a take on French toast: Hawaiian rolls dipped in egg batter, flash fried, tossed in cinnamon sugar, topped with shredded coconut and whipped cream. Service can be slow, so expect a wait. Specialty cocktails include the nonalcoholic Red Curtain, a take on the Shirley Temple with grenadine, Sprite and cherries with red edible glitter, and the Playbill, a boozier blend of the drink with brandy, peach schnapps, simple syrup, Moscato, Sprite and edible golden sparkles.
Drag by the She
“I don’t just have queens who do death drops and cartwheels,” Pam said. “I’ve had fire breathers at my show, flag twirlers, comedians, all in drag just doing their stuff. And I think that’s what attracts other drag artists to come and showcase their talent.”
There isn’t an ATM at the Six Chow House, but there are Venmo and Cash App codes onscreen while people perform (for virtual tips). The brunch menu has plenty of cocktails that range from hibiscus margaritas to “farmer’s marketinis” with blackberry and rhubarb syrup. Food options include chicken and waffles, blood orange ceviche and various pizzas and flatbreads. Drag by the She is usually on Sundays at 1 p.m., and tickets for $10 can be found via Pam’s Instagram.
Hamburger Mary's
Hamburger Mary’s is a nationwide franchise with Southern California locations in West Hollywood, Long Beach and Ontario. The West Hollywood location hosts three drag brunch shows every Saturday and four Sunday, often featuring former “RuPaul’s Drag Race” cast members and other notable queens. Though you can order any double cocktail in a foot-tall souvenir cup shaped like a fishnet-covered leg in a stiletto pump, Hamburger Mary’s is a restaurant, not a bar. That means there’s a full food menu, even if you drop by outside of performances. True to its name, there’s a page of burgers to specify to your liking, with Kobe beef, turkey, salmon and Beyond meat comprising some of your patty options. I opted for the Mary burger but couldn’t hear my server’s questions over the incredibly loud sound system. Somehow, I ended up with a spicy, well-done burger with jalapeños and Jack cheese. It probably would’ve been enjoyable had it been cooked to my preference, but the dish that I’d come back for is the spicy tuna tartare tacos in crispy wonton shells.
There’s no ATM on-site, so make sure you grab cash ahead of time. Also note that the menu doesn’t list prices and costs add up quickly. The show fee is $12, the souvenir leg cup is $31, and the burgers (with fries) run upward of $25 each, with the Beyond burger topping out at $31.
La Boheme
The brunch menu was broad, spanning oysters on the half shell to eggs Benedict with several vegan and gluten-free options available. The pitchers of bottomless mimosas ($28) appeared to be a hit with guests, but note that there is a 90-minute time limit. We tried a nonalcoholic bloody mary made with La Boheme’s mix, which was spicy and good, and the Mambo Splash, composed of coconut rum, fresh orange juice, pineapple juice and house-made sour. Our two entrees were traditional and tasty: a blackened salmon chopped salad and a prosciutto ciabatta sandwich with brie cheese, arugula, a hard-boiled egg and aged balsamic vinegar. While La Boheme’s expansive patio is popular on the weekends, the indoor restaurant is equally compelling, especially if you’re looking to share a lighthearted escape in the company of friends.
Drag brunches for the month of June will be held at 1 p.m. June 4, 10, 18 and 24. Seating begins at 12:30 p.m. All attendees are subject to a $10 entertainment fee.
Micky's West Hollywood
The brunch menu is simple — there are only eight food options but plenty of cocktails, which tend to be the more important part of drag brunch. Micky’s also has one of the best bottomless mimosa deals I’ve seen in recent times: For $18, they bring a refillable pitcher of mimosas to the table.
The show kicked off with a Sarah McLachlan-style public service announcement about how “3,000 drag queens were not tipped last year.” Micky’s has an ATM in the back, where you can withdraw cash to break into singles. The music included songs by Doja Cat, Donna Summer and Jhene Aiko, but Ruthless Envy had the room hypnotized when she performed a rendition of Kali Uchis’ “I Wish You Roses.” It’s not every day you see a queen remove a gown covered in moving butterflies to reveal a corset of red tassels and gemstone roses.
Mimosa Girls
The Mimosa Girls’ most recent production of “Wicked” was performed onstage and lasted for more than two hours with an intermission. While the drag show loosely followed the hit Broadway musical, the show’s biggest cheers came when the drag queens (and kings) broke from the script and launched into songs by Lana Del Rey, Taylor Swift and Carrie Underwood, among others. (Alanis Morrisette’s perfectly timed revenge song “You Oughta Know” brought down the house.)
Sadly, I caught the final performance of the truly delightful “Wicked,” but the troupe will return with more witchcraft in August with a drag-themed version of “Hocus Pocus.” Tickets start at $30 with a two-drink minimum. The show is 21+. There is an ATM machine on-site, and staff offered to break $20 bills for tipping.
Precinct DTLA
The crowd is a mix of locals, tourists, friends of performers and groups celebrating birthdays and bridal showers. It’s particularly heartwarming to watch as first-time drag brunch attendees are converted with showtunes into full-blown fans. Be warned that if you raise your hand to indicate you’re celebrating a special occasion, the emcee will beckon you onstage for a booty-shaking dance-off. The good news? You’ll get a shot regardless of where you place in the competition.
Your best options from the brunch menu consist of a very good breakfast burger with an over-easy egg and fried chicken tenders with waffles. A few omelets, peach brandy French toast and a vegan breakfast burrito round out the vegetarian choices. Over Easy drag brunch is hosted every Sunday, with $10 tickets available for purchase online.
Redline
There’s no ATM at Redline, but you’ll find plenty nearby, and you’ll place all of your food and drink orders at the bar. There’s only one chef in the kitchen, so orders come out fairly slowly, which the bartender likely will mention as he rings you up. There was only one bartender when I went, and a line formed quickly as other tables realized they’d have to place all orders with him. The brunch menu has the requisite breakfast burrito, fried chicken and waffles and loaded tots — keeping in mind the limited kitchen, my group opted for sides of bacon and tots (not loaded) to share. We paired our food with (incredibly stiff) espresso martinis, but plenty of tables opted for the $15 bottomless mimosa deal. Redline’s drag brunch is $7 for tickets purchased in advance and $10 at the door.
Rocco’s
Rocco’s has an ATM for tipping the queens, and bartenders or servers can break larger bills into singles. The brunch menu includes various omelets and toasts, but the all-day menu is mostly pub fare (think pizzas and burgers). We ordered a “mega cocktail” called the Reverse Cowgirl, which was essentially a life-size glass cowboy hat filled with tequila, grapefruit and soda. (I would definitely recommend splitting the mega cocktails among more than two people.) Even after starting an hour late, the queens kept the show on track and moving quickly. Rocco’s also was the only drag brunch where I saw children tipping the queens (with a bit of help from their parents).
Sorry Not Sorry
With a larger kitchen and space, Sorry Not Sorry has the freedom to get a little more creative with the brunch menu. The strawberry burrata salad was a fresh and bright departure from other indulgent offerings, and the turmeric garlic fries are downright addictive. General manager Brandon Waller’s favorite dish is the caramelized-onion egg sandwich with chipotle aioli and cheddar cheese on a soft brioche bun. A full bar is on hand for wine, beer and cocktails, with brunch beverages including Aperol spritz, house micheladas and mimosas by the glass or bottle. SNS drag brunch is $5 per person and Dapper King drag brunch is $10, with discounts available for Black, Indigenous and people of color attendees and the option to pay what you can.
Stache
Though the performances usually are hosted by two queens, Maebe A. Girl and Hybrid, Hybrid said that Maebe was out that day doing “Congress things.” (Maebe, who is the first drag queen elected to office in the U.S., currently serves as representative for the Silver Lake Neighborhood Council and is a candidate for California’s 30th Congressional District.) But Hybrid was more than comfortable hosting the show alone, and though there were a lot of tough seats with blocked views of the stage, queens like Suadé dutifully circulated around the bar and through the patio. The day we went was ’90s-themed, so performances included plenty of Destiny’s Child, TLC and Spice Girls. My favorite performer of the day was Luscious, who did a crash-course version of Janet Jackson’s Velvet Rope Tour, including outfit changes and choreography.
Eat your way across L.A.
Get our weekly Tasting Notes newsletter for reviews, news and more.
You may occasionally receive promotional content from the Los Angeles Times.