Biscuit breakfast sandwiches aren’t new. McDonald’s has been making mornings brighter with mysteriously fluffy egg, cheese and sausage biscuit sandwiches since 1986.
At All Day Baby, Jonathan Whitener and Lien Ta’s new daytime-only, breakfast-whenever-you-want-it spot in Silver Lake, they’re making a biscuit sandwich that crushes all others and manages to evoke fond memories of paper-wrapped handheld breakfasts in your mom’s station wagon.
Pastry chef Thessa Diadem’s buttermilk biscuits rise higher than most and they crumble and flake when you bite into them. The buttery biscuits encase the melty white American cheese, pillow-soft scrambled eggs and your choice of sausage patty or a husky slice of Nueske’s bacon (paying the extra $4 to get both meats is the move). After bites three and four, the sandwich is still miraculously intact.
Whitener also adds dollops of housemade strawberry jam, a personal throwback to a modification he made to his McDonald’s breakfast sandwiches as a kid. That touch of sweetness transforms breakfast into dessert then back to brunch again. Each bite is a neural jolt of decadent fat, sugar and buttery carbohydrates that will have you in the mood for a midday nap not long after.
Whitener suggests coming into the restaurant and ordering something else for brunch, then taking a few ADB biscuit sandwiches to go.
“The more it sits, the more it holds together,” Whitener, who also runs Here’s Looking at You in Koreatown, said. “It’s better as a snack later when all the flavors settle into each other.”
If you heed the chef’s advice, you can eat the sandwich at home, give it the moment of silence it deserves, then drift blissfully off to sleep.