Sumac stars in this riff on classic snickerdoodle cookies
We asked several L.A.-area pastry chefs and cooks to contribute their favorite holiday cookies. Each is a simple, homestyle cookie that reflects the contributor’s memories of holidays past.
Snickerdoodles are one of my all-time favorite cookies; they’re a great foundation base that can become anything you want.
I started experimenting rolling them in things other than cinnamon early on as a kid. But then a few years ago, I was in Lebanon helping to open a bakery called Mavia, which employs Syrian refugees. I encountered fresh sumac in the markets, always in giant bowls. The taste reminded me of Sour Patch Kids, which are legendary in restaurant kitchens as a snack. Pro tip: They taste amazing chilled.
So once I came back to the U.S., I started seeing sumac everywhere and loved finding new ways to use it. For this rendition of the snickerdoodle, I coat the cookie dough in sumac sugar.
I think that any cookie rolled in sugar with sparkle makes me think of holidays, because it makes them look like ornaments. The masa harina gives a lovely texture to an otherwise soft cookie, and I add small bits of white chocolate to get pops of sweetness to balance the sour.
I feel like so much of my work is rediscovering food in the wild and bringing it back into the kitchen and giving it a sense of place. This cookie does that for me.
— As told to Ben Mims
It's a date
Get our L.A. Goes Out newsletter, with the week's best events, to help you explore and experience our city.
You may occasionally receive promotional content from the Los Angeles Times.