The Gossiping Gourmet: Lounging seaside is a tasty experience

Seaside Lounge has just opened in the HIP [historic and interesting places] district of Laguna Beach, which is between Anita Street and Bluebird Canyon.

The word on the street is that the lounge is certain to become a real scene. My dining companion and I ate there on opening night, and it was crowded and noisy already. A very good jazz quartet was performing.

Large, low red-leather sofas and ottomans in the center of the restaurant dominated the room. Tables by the windows permit views of the ocean. Pretty hanging glass balls provide soft lighting. Gray arches around the room break up the space.

Executive chef Mathew Roberts has created an eclectic menu, with dishes from many parts of the world. We began our dinner with potato croquettes served with salsa brava and smoked olive oil. They were draped in a thick crust of breaded egg crumbs that was crunchy and very flavorful by itself but even better with the finely grated manchego cheese and potatoes. They were some of the best croquettes I have ever tasted.

We are calamari lovers, and our waiter told us that Seaside Lounge prepares the dish in an atypical manner — not fried or breaded, but lightly sautéed and served with preserved lemon and charred romesco sauce, which was deep black. The calamari — or squid — were light and fresh tasting but a little bit rubbery. The presentation was lovely, like a painting with patches of black and orange and dotted with spicy red chili peppers.

My main course was pork belly, and it was delicious. The meat was so tender, the fat had been cooked until it melted and the pork had a thin, crispy crust. It was served with daikon and finely grated carrots that had been pickled and had a hint of sweetness. An excellent ancho chile aioli sauce rested beneath the stacks of meat.

My dining companion selected the pan-seared scallops, which were served on fried polenta and sat in a citrus emulsion with strips of fennel. The polenta was thinly sliced and perfectly fried, and the scallops were very tender and moist. Sections of deep pink grapefruit added a beautiful touch.

We finished this very good meal with chunky bread pudding that was lounging in a rich chocolate sauce and adorned with thin slices of fried orange rinds.

The menu is broken down into four sections: “small plates,” “by sea,” “by air” and “by land.”

Other tasty-sounding appetizers from the small-plates section include boquerones (anchovies marinated in vinegar) grapefruit supremes and cracked pepper or yellow fin tuna with tomato, olive and herb salad and charred scallions. The cheese plate is made up of three cheeses, seasonal jam, marcona almonds and dates.

In the “by sea” category are pan-seared scallops with fried polenta, blue cornmeal crusted halibut and lightly smoked salmon with pickled sea beans, fennel slaw Japanese cucumber and fried plaintain. Lobster appears in ravioli with a stock reduction and masago (processed roe).

Things that fly appear as buttermilk chicken with chayote and poblano slaw, chile de arbol, peanut salsa and black beans. Duck confit tostadas come with queso fresco, pickled red onions, radish and hot sauce. Smoked duck breast comes with baby kale, walnuts, persimmon and a balsamic reduction.

Under “by land” is a vegetarian dish of sun chokes and pumpkin seed risotto, with root vegetables. Meat eaters might like the hanger steak, pintxos (skewered tapas) chimichurri and salt roasted tomatoes.

There is definitely a Spanish influence to many of the dishes. I know that I will return to try the ones we missed on our first visit.

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SEASIDE LOUNGE

Location: 1100 South Coast Hwy., Suite 202 (second floor)

Hours: 3 p.m. to midnight Tuesdays through Thursdays; 3 p.m. to 2 a.m. Fridays; noon to 2 a.m. Saturdays; and noon to midnight Sundays

Prices:

Appetizers: $6 to $18

Entrees: $14 to $25

Wine:

Bottles: $39 to $52

By the glass: $9 to $14

Corkage: $15

(10% discount for Laguna residents.)

Information: seasideloungelaguna.com or (949) 497-4148