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Exploring islands off California’s coast

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Los Angeles Times Staff Writer

Though relatively near nerve-popping L.A., Channel Islands National Park is unspoiled and unsullied, rising abruptly from the sea off Southern California. Beyond the cliffs is a wealth of natural treasures. The islands range from one to 96 square miles and harbor life as diverse as microscopic plankton and the blue whale, the largest animal on Earth.

San Miguel Island

Details: San Miguel, 55 miles west of Ventura, is the island farthest from the mainland. Rough seas are common; only a few public boat trips are scheduled annually.

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Known for: This is the back country of the Channel Islands, famous for its strong winds and thick fogs. Camping is for the hardy.

History: The Chumash Indians lived here for more than 11,000 years. In 1542, Juan Cabrillo and his men claimed the island for Spain; some say Cabrillo died here.

What to see and do: Hike to the caliche forest to see eerie sand castings of ancient vegetation; check out the beach at Cuyler Harbor; take a 16-mile hike to Point Bennett to see hundreds of elephant seals.

Santa Rosa Island

Details: Santa Rosa, 40 miles from Ventura, is the second largest of the Channel Islands. Strong winds often buffet it, but boat service is frequent during summer and fall.

Known for: Its rare Torrey pine forest and stunning beaches, including Water Canyon Beach.

History: Humans lived here for more than 13,000 years. Ranching was prevalent until just a few years ago; the former owners still operate a pricey hunting camp a few months of the year.

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What to see and do: The campground here is first class with flush toilets, shelters and water. Hike along ridges and beaches, or go on a cross-island tour with a ranger. Kayaking is for pros only.

Santa Cruz Island

Details: With 96 square miles, Santa Cruz is California’s largest island and the park’s most popular. Boat service is daily almost year round.

Known for: Its sea caves include some of the largest in the world. Kayakers, snorkelers (bring a wet suit) and divers love it. Birders visit from around the world to see the island scrub-jay.

History: The island was named for a priest’s staff accidentally left here during a 1769 expedition. Chumash Indians lived here for 9,000 years; ranching took place until just a few years ago. The island is owned by the Nature Conservancy and the National Park Service.

What to see and do: Kayak, hike and camp in the Scorpion Ranch area. Or visit Prisoners Harbor and hike to Pelican Bay with a naturalist. It’s strenuous but beautiful.

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Anacapa Island

Details: The closest island to the mainland, Anacapa is the easiest and least expensive to reach; the Island Packers’ trip takes about 60 minutes and costs $45 round trip for adults, $28 for kids.

Known for: Anacapa’s three small islets and 40-foot-high Arch Rock are Channel Islands icons.

History: Visit the 1937 lighthouse and station. A small museum houses the original Fresnel lens, replaced in 1990 by an automated light.

What to see and do: Climb 154 steps from the landing dock on East Anacapa to the island’s plateau, where a 1.5-mile trail system will take you to Inspiration Point. Rangers put on an underwater video show during the summer. There’s a campground, but the smell of sea gull dung is overwhelming.

Santa Barbara Island

Details: This mile-square island is 38 miles from San Pedro (46 miles from Ventura), far south of the other islands. Trips are infrequent. Landings can be wet.

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Known for: Bright yellow giant coreopsis, or tree sunflowers, are beautiful in the spring. Countless seabird colonies and pinnipeds (seals, sea lions and northern elephant seals) can be seen.

History: Formed by underwater volcanic activity, Santa Barbara looks like twin-peaked mesa with steep cliffs. In 1602, Sebastián Vizcaíno named Santa Barbara in honor of the saint whose feast day is celebrated Dec. 4, the day he arrived.

What to see and do: Hike, watch sea lions bark at visitors, or snorkel in Landing Cove, where you can spot sea stars, sea urchins and bright garibaldi. A campground overlooks the Pacific, but it is primitive and unprotected.

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