Tea time

Afternoon tea might not be the norm in these parts. Why not start your own tradition, SoCal-style?

Teaforest

Choose from more than 40 varieties of loose-leaf tea at this sleek, modern cafe in Culver City’s growing arts district. To go along, there’s a handful of sandwiches on La Brea Bakery bread. Instead of being classic finger sandwiches, they’re crusty, hot panini, such as the caprese with pesto, mozzarella and sliced tomato.

* Sandwich, $5.99. 8686 Washington Blvd., Culver City, (310) 815-1723.

The Tea House on Los Rios

The eponymous tea at this charming circa 1911 cottage just a couple of blocks from the San Juan Capistrano mission -- listen closely and you can hear the bells -- comes with fruit salad; four triangular tea sandwiches; a crumbly, heart-shaped scone; and tea, but of course.

* Los Rios tea, $18.95. 31731 Los Rios, San Juan Capistrano, (949) 443-3914.

Tea Rose Garden

An alternative to the better known tea spots out this way -- notably the Huntington and Rose Tree Garden -- this florist-cum-eatery is a popular bridal and baby shower venue. The signature afternoon tea is a sort of build-

your-own affair that allows you to select any three of the dozen or so sandwich offerings, your choice of scone and one of the 50-plus teas.

* Tea Rose afternoon tea, $16.95 per person. 28 S. Raymond Ave., Pasadena, (626) 578-1144.

Marche Moderne

This sharp dining room in South Coast Plaza delivers modern French fare as well as a few traditional offerings. But the lunch menu also features a couple of “boutique tea sandwiches” that can hit the spot, mid-shopping spree. There’s a creamy egg salad flavored with chives and garlic aioli, and roasted big-eye tuna with lemon zest and olive oil.

* Sandwich, $13. 3333 Bristol St., Level 3, Costa Mesa, (714) 434-7900.

Clementine

Once a week, Annie Miller’s bakery and cafe gets fancy for afternoon tea. Between 3 and 5 p.m. Thursdays, tables are dressed in white linens and there’s table service (instead of the usual order at the counter routine). Traditional scones are served with house-

made clotted cream and lemon curd. And there are sandwiches such as gravlax on pain de mie. To finish: dainty sweets and a chocolate truffle.

* Afternoon tea, $18.95. 1751 Ensley Ave., L.A., (310) 552-1080.