2005 Charles Joguet Chinon 'Les Varennes du Grand Clos'

Rich, blood-red, with gorgeous fruit and a taste of black currants, cranberries and sweet spices overlaid with a touch of tobacco, Joguet's 2005 Chinon "Les Varennes du Grand Clos" seduces you from the first sip. Enjoy this exceptionally elegant Chinon with roast beef or prime rib, rack of lamb and grilled duck breast. The 2005 is drinking beautifully now, but you can also put it away for a while and see how it evolves.

--S. Irene Virbila

Region: Loire Valley

Price: $29 to $32

Style: Earthy and nuanced

Food it goes with: Roast or Peking duck, braised lamb shank or oxtail, osso buco.

Where you find it: K&L Wine Merchants in Hollywood, (323) 464-9463, www.klwines.com; Wine Exchange in Orange, (714) 974-1454 and (800) 76WINEX, www.winex.com; and the Wine House in West Los Angeles, (310) 479-3731, www.winehouse.com.

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