Getting to the Meat of the Matter: Bones

My penchant for chewing on bones has been an embarrassment to everyone but me. Give me a pile of Tony Roma rib bones and I am in heaven. My husband once left the table, never to return. I didn’t even noticed.

He refuses to dine with me if I order a veal chop, whose large, thick, juicy bone I adore, or, worse yet, lamb chops, which usually come three or four to a plate. Forget osso buco . I am forbidden to utter those two words.

I am a carnivore, plain and simple.

And guess what? Carnivores are in.

This is the year of the bones.

Who says? Paul Bocuse, of all people, the father of boneless nouvelle cuisine.

There he was at Max Au Triangle restaurant in Beverly Hills, wiping his plate squeaky clean with a piece of French bread the way they do in French films. Fingers, no fork. Not a single dribble of sauce was left on his plate when he got through. Actually, I didn’t blame him. The sauce he was sopping up was a superb beurre blanc with truffles under tender slices of boneless Dover sole.

Bocuse was expounding--as many Frenchmen tend to do when they converse--on the evolution of nouvelle cuisine, a culinary movement for which, by the way, he takes no credit.

“We have been misinformed, Monsieur? “ I asked with alarm.

“But of course,” he said. “I had nothing to do with nouvelle cuisine except that I am a chef-owner of a restaurant, which seemed to be the basis of the nouvelle cuisine roster of chefs. The term nouvelle cuisine was a Gault et Millau invention, no one else’s,” he said. “The era started when chefs came out of the kitchen into the dining room; when they started to take charge.”

And all this time I and hundreds of other writers on the subject of nouvelle cuisine have been crediting Bocuse, among a handful of other culinary gurus, for having brought “new,” light, bright, picture-perfect French cooking to the world of cuisine; pretty plates with raspberries all in a row. That sort of thing.

“But I thought you were the father of nouvelle cuisine,” I said.

“You are wrong,” Bocuse said. “I am a traditional chef. I have been doing traditional French cooking all my professional life. Actually, nouvelle cuisine means different things to different people. It is a very, very complicated subject. Let it suffice to say that journalists who were always looking for something new to write about helped promote the concept. When they talk about nouvelle cuisine they mean anything that is new: new vegetables, new cheese, New York, New Jersey. . . .” Now he was being silly.

Even such influences as Japanese-style cooking, which became associated with nouvelle cuisine, have not changed the basic nature of French cooking, Bocuse claimed. “Everyone is turning more and more to traditional cooking in France. That’s the ‘new’ trend.”

“Beyond that?” I asked the culinary guru.

Bocuse gave a Gallic shrug. “The point is,” Bocuse said, taking his bread to the garlic mousse, which had been served as a bed for the delicately fanned slices of boneless saddle of lamb (the third course of Joachim Splichal’s nouvelle cuisine meal) “nouvelle cuisine has undergone numerous ‘epochs’ in its evolutionary development: There has been the epoch of the rutabaga, epoch of the puree, the kiwi, and now the epoch of the bones--of traditional cooking. Bones are extremely important to traditional cooking. Bones add flavor to foods,” he said.

“And eating them?” I asked, tears of joy welling up.

“Certainement, “ Bocuse said.

“Then it is no longer gauche to gnaw on bones in public?” I asked, wiping away a teardrop that fell on the rim of my glass filled with a lovely Pommery Brut Rose Champagne. “Does that mean I’m ‘in,’ at last? Now I can eat bones undauntedly? Without worry? Without a divorce?”

“Naturellement, “ said Bocuse, rising to fetch a handful of some of his newly printed menus featuring “traditional” French cooking--the cooking he claims to have always cooked even when the world thought it was “nouvelle.” Bocuse, incidentally, still runs his restaurant near Lyon, as well as two French restaurants in Orlando, Fla., with colleagues Gaston le Notre and Roger Verge. In Tokyo, Osaka, Kobe and Kyoto, there are Bocuse food boutiques selling prime-quality Bocuse jams and teas as well as Bocuse wine and Cognac. Bocuse divides his time among the international ventures with unceasing energy.

The cover of the menu for his restaurant shows Bocuse, toque askew, carrying a carved out pumpkin. He is flanked on the left by Michel, the farmer who actually operates the farm that produces the fresh vegetables used in his traditional French cooking, and, on the right, by his Madagascan) car hop wearing a bell-boy’s uniform and cap bearing the name, Paul Bocuse, and holding a bouquet of flowers.

“Where’s the bone?” I asked, glancing at the menu.

A Boneless Menu

No bones on this traditional menu.

“Try my new book, ‘Paul Bocuse in Your Kitchen,’ (Pantheon: $18.95). Page 210.”

“Thanks, Bocuse,” I said, mentally slapping a marker on the page.

No bones about it. There it was. The king of bones--the veal shank, braced like a gendarme over a bed of baby vegetables.

And while we’re at it, here are some other bony recipes that have made my day.

VEAL SHANK WITH BABY

VEGETABLES A LA BOCUSE

(Jarret de Veau Primeurs)

1 (2 3/4-pound) veal shank, about

Salt, pepper

Butter or margarine

2 cloves garlic, unpeeled

3 tomatoes, peeled and chopped

1 tablespoon olive oil

1/2 pound new baby carrots, peeled and cut in half lengthwise

1 pound new baby potatoes, peeled and cut in half lengthwise

Sprinkle veal shank with salt and pepper. Melt 1/4 cup butter over medium heat in pot just large enough to hold veal shank. Add veal shank and 1 clove garlic. Brown about 15 minutes, turning frequently. Add tomatoes, cover and reduce heat. Simmer 1 1/2 hours, turning meat occasionally. If liquid from tomatoes evaporates and meat begins to stick, add a little warm water to pot.

While meat finishes cooking, heat 2 tablespoons butter and olive oil in large skillet. Add carrots and potatoes, remaining garlic clove and season to taste with salt and pepper. Cook vegetables until lightly browned, then lower heat and cook slowly 15 to 20 minutes or until done, shaking pan frequently.

To serve, lift veal out of pot and slice on cutting board. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Place on hot platter and surround with vegetables. Taste liquid and correct seasonings. Serve in sauce boat on side. Makes 6 servings.

Note: Veal shanks can be purchased or ordered at some gourmet meat stores.

DEVILED BEEF BONES WITH

MUSTARD SAUCE

Meaty bones from cooked beef rib roast

Prepared brown mustard

Fine dry bread crumbs

1/2 cup tomato puree

1/2 cup chicken broth

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon sugar

Allow 3 bones per serving. Spread bones generously with brown mustard, then roll in bread crumbs to coat completely. Place bones in shallow pan in single layer and bake at 300 degrees 15 minutes.

Meanwhile, combine tomato puree, chicken broth, 4 teaspoons brown mustard, salt and sugar in saucepan. Bring to boil, then remove from heat. Cool slightly and pour over bones while warm. Makes 4 servings.

CHARRED VEAL CHOPS HALEKULANI

1/2 cup olive oil

2 bay leaves

2 cloves garlic, chopped

Juice of 1 small lime

12 sprigs fresh rosemary

6 (8- to 10-ounce) veal chops

Dash salt

Dash black pepper

24 segments lime

Heat olive oil with bay leaves, garlic, lime juice and 6 rosemary sprigs. Cook, with without boiling or scorching oil, 10 to 15 minutes. Remove from heat and cool. Brush veal chops with marinade. Marinate overnight in refrigerator. When almost ready to serve, sprinkle chops with salt and pepper. Grill chops over hot coals about 4 inches from source of heat 8 to 10 minutes on each side. Chops should be pink inside. Garnish each chop with sprig of rosemary and 4 lime segments each. Makes 6 servings.

Note: High-quality white veal chops can be purchased or ordered at some gourmet meat stores.

BRAISED SHORTRIBS MUSSO FRANK

6 pounds short ribs

Oil

Salt, pepper

Flour

1 large onion, chopped

1 large carrot, sliced

2 stalks celery, chopped

1 (8-ounce) can tomato sauce

Brown ribs in small amount of oil in Dutch oven. Sprinkle with salt, pepper and small amount of flour and continue to cook until browned on all sides. Add onion, carrot, celery and tomato sauce. Pour boiling water over ribs to cover. Cover and cook until tender, about 1 1/2 to 2 hours or until meat is tender. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

KOREAN BARBECUED RIBS

(Bul Kogi)

4 to 5 pounds short ribs or loin flank

2 cloves garlic, crushed

1/4 cup sesame seeds, toasted and crushed

1 cup finely chopped green onions

1 teaspoon black pepper

1 teaspoon sesame oil

2 cups soy sauce

1 cup sugar

1/4 cup oil

Place short ribs in bowl. Add garlic, sesame seeds, green onions, pepper, sesame oil, soy sauce, sugar and oil and toss to coat meat well. Cover and let stand at room temperature 2 hours. Barbecue over coals or under broiler, turning and basting often until meat is tender. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

ALL-AMERICAN BARBECUED RIBS

4 to 5 pounds spareribs

Barbecue Sauce

Cook ribs in large, heavy pan in boiling salted water to cover until meat is tender, at least 1 hour. Drain well. Arrange ribs on grill over slow coals. Grill about 10 to 15 minutes on each side. Brush with Barbecue Sauce at least twice on each side. Makes 4 servings.

Barbecue Sauce

1 teaspoon chili powder

3/4 teaspoon celery salt

1/4 cup brown sugar, packed

1/4 cup vinegar

1/4 cup Worcestershire sauce

1 cup catsup

Combine chili powder, celery salt, brown sugar, vinegar, Worcestershire and catsup and bring to boil. Sauce may be prepared ahead of time and stored, refrigerated, until used. Makes about 1 1/2 cups sauce.

CHINESE-STYLE SPARERIBS

4 to 5 pounds spareribs

1/4 cup honey

1/4 cup soy sauce

1/4 cup Sherry

1/4 cup wine vinegar

1 clove garlic, crushed

1/8 teaspoon ground ginger

Sesame seeds

Simmer ribs in water to cover 40 minutes. Drain. Mix honey, soy sauce, Sherry, vinegar, garlic and ginger and simmer 10 minutes. Place ribs on grill over moderately hot coals. Brush with sauce while grilling on both sides to golden brown. Or weave ribs on spit and cook until glazed and brown, basting frequently with sauce. Cut between ribs. Roll ribs in sesame seeds to coat. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

GIUSEPPE’S OSSO BUCO

6 pounds veal shanks

1/4 cup flour

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon black pepper

1/2 cup olive oil

1 medium onion, minced

1 medium carrot, minced

1 stalk celery, minced

2 cloves garlic, minced

1 cup dry white wine

1 cup beef broth

2 (1-pound 13-ounce) cans tomatoes, drained

1/2 teaspoon basil

1/2 teaspoon rosemary

Gremolata

Have veal shanks sawed into 2-inch pieces and secure each with string. Coat shanks with flour seasoned with salt and pepper. Heat 1/4 cup olive oil in heavy skillet. Add shanks, a few pieces at a time, and brown well on all sides.

While veal is browning, saute onion, carrot, celery and garlic in remaining 1/4 cup oil in large casserole or Dutch oven. Cook, stirring occasionally, until vegetables are tender.

When veal is browned, arrange on top of vegetables. Place wine, beef broth, tomatoes, basil and rosemary in pan used to brown veal and cook, stirring to loosen any bits and pieces of meat that may have stuck to pan. When mixture boils, incorporate scrapings from bottom of pan, then pour over veal. Cover casserole. Bake at 325 degrees 1 1/2 hours or until veal is very tender.

Remove veal to warm platter. Remove strings. Spoon any fat from surface of pan juices and ladle juices over veal. Sprinkle top with Gremolata and serve with rice, pilaf or pasta. Makes 6 to 8 servings.

Note: Veal shanks can be purchased or ordered at gourmet meat markets.

Gremolata

6 cloves garlic, minced

2 tablespoons grated lemon peel

1/2 cup chopped parsley Mix garlic, lemon peel and parsley. Sprinkle over Osso Buco.

MARINATED RIBS TERIYAKI

1/2 cup soy sauce

1/2 cup chicken stock

1/2 cup honey

1/2 cup dry Sherry

1/4 teaspoon garlic powder

1/4 teaspoon ground ginger

4 pounds lean pork spareribs

Combine soy sauce, chicken stock, honey, Sherry, garlic powder and ginger, blending well. Place in container large enough to fit ribs. Add ribs, cutting to fit, if necessary. Seal and turn several times to coat well.

Refrigerate several hours or overnight to marinate, turning occasionally. Cook slowly over coals 45 to 60 minutes or until well browned and thoroughly cooked, brushing several times during cooking with sauce. Heat remaining sauce and serve with ribs. Makes 4 servings.